Electronic ignition for a motorcycle. Radio circuits electrical circuit diagrams

Everything worked well, but as always, our designers did not take into account some features: after all, when heated, a magnetically controlled microcircuit (presumably of the K1116 type) stops functioning. The sensor is mounted on the generator and is located far from the heated cylinders, but the overall heating of the engine housing is still significant. First, for better cooling, I replaced the round cover that covers the generator with a half-segment, and drove for a while, and yet sometimes it failed in the heat. So I drove until, apparently, some kind of pebble fell into the gap of the sensor, and it was cut off by a rotating rotor.

And when I switched back to the usual ignition scheme, it was not there: I had already "tasted the forbidden fruit." The difference in operation, and especially when starting the engine, between the electronic ignition system and the traditional one is so significant that I frantically began to look for ways to restore the electronic ignition. Unfortunately, no circuit was attached, and I had to experiment in applying pulses from the contact interrupter to the switch.

The experiments very quickly ended with a "successful" failure of the microcircuit in the switch of both one and the other cylinder. There was no question of replacing microcircuits, due to their absence on the radio market, and, in general, it is not clear what type of microcircuits was used. It is also not clear which transistor was used as a key (a square with three pins is attached to the switch case, which is a radiator). But, obviously, this is a high-voltage transistor, since no additional measures were provided for protecting the transistor in the circuit, and by dialing it turned out that the transistor was composite. There was an idea to use the transistor for its intended purpose together with the case of a faulty switch. And then, leafing through the literature on this topic. But "appetite comes with eating", I immediately wanted to use the advantages of the previous scheme. There, protection of the ignition coils was provided against prolonged current flow when the engine was stopped (if there were no pulses for 15–20 s, then the key transistor closed smoothly). Initially, I used the K155TL1 chip and suffered for a year with it, it worked well, but it failed too often, and no protection helped.

Having made an audit of the availability of microcircuit stocks, I chose the K155LP7 microcircuit, in which there are two NAND elements and two fairly powerful transistors. On its basis, he developed an electronic ignition circuit, which has been serving without complaints for 3 years. In addition, the possibility of a quick transition from an electronic ignition system to a traditional one for each cylinder, independently of one another, was retained.

The do-it-yourself ignition circuit for a motorcycle consists of three blocks: two identical ones - switches based on transistor keys and a switching unit, which is a matching element for switch blocks, in which a voltage of 5 V is generated to power microcircuits, current pulses are supplied from interrupters, all necessary ignition components. The motorcycle ignition works as follows. The switching unit receives current pulses from the ignition interrupter through pin 3 of the switch connector from the switching unit.

When the breaker contact is open, then +12V from the ignition switch through the current-limiting resistors R1R2 (or R3R4) of the switching unit, through the resistor R1 of the switch unit, limited by the zener diode VD1 to 5 V, are fed to input 13 of the DD1 microcircuit. Through the diode VD2, the capacitor C1 is charged to 5 V. Then, at the output 6 of the emitter follower of the DD1 microcircuit, there will be a high level, which is fed to the strobe input 1DD1.1 and DD1.2, and does not affect the operation of the AND-NOT circuit. Further, the high level at the output of 12DD1.1 is inverted by the transistor (DD1.4), and the low level from the output of 10DD1.4, applied to the base of the key transistor VT1, locks it. When the contact of the breaker is closed, the zero level opens VT1, but if the contacts are closed within 8 - 12 s, the capacitor C1 will start to discharge through the time-setting resistor R2, the base-emitter junction DD1.3 and the resistor R3. When a low level is reached at the input 1DD1.2, a high level appears at the output 12DD1.1, which closes the transistor switch VT1, as a result, the ignition coil is de-energized, preventing the current from flowing for a long time both in the coil and through the transistor VT1, thereby protecting them from heating.

The voltage of 5 V is supplied to the switch from the switching unit through the 4th contact of the block connector. This voltage is generated in the switching unit, which has a +5 V voltage regulator on the 142KREN5A microcircuit. Diodes VD1 and VD2 decouple the voltage supply independently of each mode switch. Elements VD3, R5, C3 - protection and filter for supply voltage. Capacitors C1 and C2 are also saved from the traditional ignition circuit, especially since there is a recommendation for this in the article. Readers may pay attention to the incorrect setting of the operation mode switches (what is available at hand is used). So, in the switch position - the usual ignition circuit - resistors R1R2 (R3R4) remain connected in parallel with the contacts of the breaker, but due to the isolation diodes VD1 and VD2, their influence is insignificant. At least no significant difference was found during the experiment both with them and in their "pure form", but the diodes must withstand a reverse voltage of at least 400 V.

Structurally, the switch circuit is assembled on a printed circuit board and installed instead of a failed board, the previous wiring and connectors are also preserved. The switching unit is made from improvised materials and is mounted in front of the motorcycle frame. It also has a terminal block for the wire of external wires from the ignition coils and breakers, two toggle switches of the TB-1-2 type are used as a mode switch.

Blocks of electronic switches are located under the gas tank, and the previously located turn signal relay had to be moved to another location. I installed it in the compartment under the instrument, naturally with the lead wires extended.

Much has been written about the advantages of this ignition scheme for a motorcycle, but I also give my arguments in its favor: so one of the ignition coils is clearly defective, it does not work in the usual circuit - there is practically no spark, but it works like a pretty little one in the electronic circuit! And if earlier I had to regularly change the spark plugs, which were often "naughty", now I forgot when I last changed them. Of course, this scheme is not a dogma, it is assembled taking into account the availability of details, and it can be improved. So, you can install a diode between the base of the transistor VT1 and the emitter DD1.3, as shown in the motorcycle ignition diagram with a dashed line. Then, with a long closure of the breaker contacts, the key transistor closes smoothly, in the author's version, a spark jumps at this moment, which for me is a sign of the health of the switch.

Electronic ignition of the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle with one Hall sensor.

By your numerous requests, I decided to write a half-baked article about my electronic ignition. I put it on my Jupiter a year ago, though I messed around with the installation, but it was worth it. I forgot what ignition is in general (it’s not even afraid of dampness!), The engine began to run much smoother, softer, dynamics improved, at speed the engine became much more sensitive to gas, idling became smoother and more stable. It starts up even with a decently run down battery. Having left the season and not knowing the troubles, I immediately put the same ignition on the new “dropsy” engine (I wrote about it in my previous article. So, in order. Installation and configuration took one day, all the details (I used a Hall sensor, a bundle of wires, a switch and a two-pin ignition coil from the Oka. I didn’t change anything on the generator: I just removed the cams and fixed the Hall sensor in a suitable place. The plate - the modulator is fixed on the rotor - so that it passes clearly in the middle of the slot of the Hall sensor , used washers.How to place everything - you can see in the pictures

Operation and problems:
For some reason, many are sure that the same 12 volts that it “feeds” are supplied to the red wire of the sensor from the switch, and based on these considerations, the sensor is connected not to the switch connector, but to the motorcycle’s on-board network. The voltage there, of course, is the same, but it is only passed through the sensor protection system from power surges, which makes its operation more accurate and uninterrupted.
Now about switches. The devices are not simple, expensive and non-repairable, they do not forgive wrong connections. Buying a ready-made “switch-sensor” harness in a store (especially since it costs about 60 rubles) is much cheaper than changing a damaged “brain”. There is not enough space on the motorcycle, my hands are itching to remove the radiator from the switch. You can’t do this, since it won’t take even ten minutes for the switch to overheat and “die”.
One more good advice: if they undertook to redo the ignition, then all the details should be “from the same garden” (sensor, switch, harness and coil). It is better to take a coil for 1-cylinder devices 3112.3705 from the front-wheel drive Zhiguli, and for 2-cylinder devices - a two-spark 3012.3705 (from the modern Volga or Oka). Do not check the spark between the high-voltage wire and the "ground", look for a spark only on the candle (which should have good contact with the "ground" at the time of testing). If you carry the wire too far from ground, the voltage in the secondary winding of the coil, trying to break through the excessive air gap, will exceed reasonable limits, and a spark will slip inside the ignition coil and disable it. But since the coil is inherently a transformer, the voltage will also rise in the primary winding. And this may not withstand the output transistor of the switch. If it "burns out", the switch cannot be restored.

When writing this article, materials from the Moto magazine and personal experience were used.

Please write to [email protected]

On Ural motorcycles, which are produced after the 90s, a contactless ignition system is installed. But the expanses of Russia are also roaming the forerunners of the happy owners of new iron horses.

In the outback, you can still see a rarity - a three-wheeled worker based on the M-72. On such older models of motorcycles, a contact-type ignition system is installed.

Leave mechanics or install electronics

Perhaps not all old motorcycle models are on the move. The Ural motorcycle stands and rusts in the barn of my grandfather, because it does not start.

The wheels are spinning, the engine is not jammed. Maybe a spark in the ground, as they say, goes away. In short - you need to look at the sparking system. But a working motorcycle, with a contact ignition system, delivers unexpected and unpleasant problems to its owner:

• does not start when it is very necessary;
• with new oil scraper rings in the engine, spark plugs are covered with soot;
• there is no necessary engine power when driving with a maximum load;
• maximum speed is not reached;
• the battery is slightly discharged, the engine will not start.

This article will help you decide in which direction to modernize your Urals.

A lot of problems are created by the contact ignition system, especially when the moving parts in it are already worn out, backlash has appeared, the geometry of the elements has changed.

Everything is solved simply - all cam ignition is thrown out, a modern non-contact type electronic sparking system is installed. You no longer have to do the thankless job of cleaning contacts and endlessly adjusting gaps in the breaker. All this is possible thanks to the simple, but at the same time quite reliable design of the motorcycle. So, for example, it is quite easy to install a thermal gap and provide it with your own hands, using only your tools from the garage. This way you will gain valuable experience and save money on workshop visits.

What provides a contactless ignition system on a motorcycle Ural and Dnepr

1. No headache for the owner of the motorcycle during its operation;
2. Engine start in damp and cold weather;
3. Trouble-free operation of the ignition system;
4. Increasing the driving characteristics of the motorcycle as a whole;
5. Increasing the resource of candles;
6. Starting the engine when the battery voltage drops to 6 volts;
7. Constant, not changing over time, ignition timing;
8. The impossibility of overheating the ignition coil.
9. Powerful, necessary color, sparking.

Briefly about the contactless ignition system

The contactless system installed on all vehicles includes:

• modulator i.e. magnetic flux converter electrical impulses;
• magnetic flux sensors (let's say a Hall sensor);
• an ignition coil, slightly different in design from the traditional one;
• a switch that distributes sparking;
• switching wires, terminals, fasteners.

The principle of operation of a contactless ignition system is not complicated. A rotating plate mounted on a shaft, with its petals, opens and closes the path of the magnetic flux (the magnetic field is formed by the installed magnet), which fixes the Hall sensor.

This article will certainly be of interest to fans of boxer engines and the creators of real garage monsters.

These field discontinuities depend on the position of the distributor shaft. An impulse from a Hall sensor (or similar in purpose) occurs at a certain moment when the piston is at the right point for sparking. Further, instantly, the impulse is transmitted to the switch and to the ignition coil. The result is the formation of a spark in the spark plugs.

To mount the ignition system on a motorcycle, you either need to make its individual elements (modulator, plate) with your own hands, or purchase ready-made kits such as Saruman or Sovek.

Electronic ignition systems from "Sovek" and "Saruman", equipment, features and differences.

If there is no desire to make electronic ignition elements for the Ural motorcycle on your own, then you can purchase a kit ready for installation. Advantages of ready-made ignition systems:

• production takes place in the factory;
• the technical control procedure does not provide for checking individual elements, but testing the performance of the entire system as a whole;

The most common and affordable for the purchase of sez production from SoveK and Saruman.

1. "Saruman". The complete set provides two options - with the optical sensor or with the Hall sensor. In any configuration there is an ignition unit, a platform for installing a sensor, a modulator with a flow break shutter, mounting wires and installation instructions.

Features of the Saruman kit:

• ignition timing driver (FUOZ) separate;
• built-in protection of the system against overvoltage of the generator;
• LED indication for easy ignition setting
• microprocessor firmware is made for a specific motorcycle model;
• waterproof, locking connectors;

2. "SoveK". Several options for ignition systems are offered. Microprocessor type and conventional non-contact.

The complete set can be with the ignition coil and without it. Includes ignition module, modulator, switch with built-in FUOZ.

Technical features of the Sovek kit:

• the microprocessor module can work with various ignition coils;
• sparking operation is ensured, both at low (6 volts) and at high voltage (16 volts) in the on-board network.

Replacing spark plugs before installing electronic ignition systems

Candles are the last element of the sparking system in any engine. They operate under conditions of high pressure and temperature.

Sparking on them occurs when a high voltage pulse is applied. Therefore, it is not possible to test them, without a test bench, at home.

The serviceability of a working candle can only be judged visually - by the soot on its tip or the presence on the "skirt". To ensure reliable operation of the engine - change the spark plugs in accordance with the rules for the operation of the motorcycle, without relying on their eternal work.

Choose the right glow number when buying spark plugs. Set the gap in the spark plug electrodes to 0.7-0.8 mm.

We hope that these problems with candles are not observed and, after acquiring (manufacturing) a non-contact type ignition system, replacing candles, we proceed to adjustment work.

Setting up and adjusting the ignition on motorcycles Dnepr and Ural.

The procedure for adjustment and adjustment is the same for all motorcycle models. Features are associated only with a specifically installed electronic ignition system. General order:

1. We install an electronic ignition system on a motorcycle;
2. We set the ignition moment by turning the shaft and aligning the embossed arrow on the flywheel with the mark on the crankcase;
3. We connect the wires, according to the scheme of the manufacturer;
4. Without turning the shaft, we adjust the position of: module, flow sensors (Hall, optical), modulator;
5. We fix the elements of the ignition system.
6. We rotate the shaft and control the formation of a spark;
7. We adjust the optimal ignition timing after a test run.

When using 92 brand gasoline on motorcycles, we make an adjustment from the standard adjustment of the ignition timing. Let's put it a little earlier.

Installing an electronic ignition system will allow you to safely operate the motorcycle in all weather and climatic conditions.

We remove the ancient contact ignition and change it to contactless electronic ignition.

Back in the seventies of the last century, many automobile and motorcycle companies began to replace mechanical contact ignition on engines with wear-free electronic ignition. on contact. In addition, this significantly reduces fuel consumption and CO content, since due to a more powerful discharge, the carburetor can be significantly depleted, and despite this, the fuel burns out more completely. And as you know, the more complete and better the combustion of fuel, the greater the engine power. Well, one more advantage is the ability to start the engine with a dead battery, since the components from which the electronic ignition circuit will be assembled are designed to operate at a voltage of 8 to 18 volts.

But the most unpleasant thing about contact ignition is that contacts made by unknown basement "companies" and by no means from tungsten burn out after a couple of hundred kilometers. Or the adjusted gaps constantly “float away”, plus the battery that has run down a couple of volts. From all this, skating turns into a hassle, and a cold start of the engine turns into a simulator for pumping up the right leg.

Currently, factory electronic ignition units have appeared on sale, for example, Starooskolskoye. It pleases on the one hand - set and forget. But their first drawback is their applicability only for a boxer domestic motor, and complete unsuitability for Izham or Java.

The second is if, for example, a Hall sensor flies, then the entire block can be thrown away. Well, the third minus of the factory electronic ignition is that the coil and switch are located in the high-temperature zone under the cover, which leads to engine interruptions during long trips in hot weather (many Voyage owners, Volkov, and Sollo complain about this).

The design of a home-made electronic ignition that I propose is assembled from very common and cheap (compared to foreign cars) parts from the VAZ 2108, 09, and is free from all the above disadvantages. The scheme is also suitable for Java and Izh, there are only some installation nuances for these motorcycles, which I will describe in.

Having assembled an electronic ignition system from these parts and going on a long trip, you will always be sure that in any case you will return home on your own, since any failed part can be replaced separately from the rest and you can buy a switch, Hall sensor or ignition coil you can in any city or village in the stall of auto parts. Although in the nine years of annual trips to the sea on a motorcycle, I have never burned anything, I carried (going on a long trip) spare parts in a case all these years.

We remove the standard contact ignition and the standard coil from the engine, the operation of which depends on the weather and air humidity. Now you need to buy automotive parts for the electronic ignition system, namely: eight switch, eight Hall sensor, and only Kaluga plant car electronics, it is in a laminated package and costs a little more than unreliable Chinese ones, which are usually offered in stores a little cheaper and without packaging.

Next, we purchase a two-pin ignition coil from Oka, the new Volga or Gazelle, you will also need a six-pin plug connector for a switch with wires, and a set of high-voltage silicon wires (you can find one by one), also designed for Oka or eight. Somehow I came across wires on sale that did not fit snugly on the Okovskaya coil and had to return them, so when buying wires, take the coil with you and check the tightness of the fit, this is important for the smooth operation of the ignition system in the rain. (when removing the wire cap from the coil or from the candle, you get a sound like from a suction cup).

Having bought all of the above components, connect them according to the diagram (pictured), and fix them on the motorcycle: the switch on the frame under the seat, the coil under the tank or in front of the tank from below, connect the Hall sensor to the wires and run it to the camshaft area and leave it hanging for now. Here I advise you to solder the sensor wires, removing the connector, it is much more reliable. Speaking of the coil, it can fit under the standard cover, but I don’t advise you to mount it there, it’s better under the tank and I’ll explain why.

Under the cover, the temperature reaches one hundred degrees (during long work in hot weather), and as I said, that is why on a long trip on a Ural Wolf motorcycle there are interruptions from heating the ignition coil, which is located inside under the cover, and from heating the switch. More than one owner of this motorcycle complained about this problem. The coil should at least somehow be blown by the wind, then you can ride for days, and there will be no interruptions in the operation of the motor.

Now you need to order a turner rotary disc, on which the Hall sensor will be attached, and with the help of three slots on this disk, it will be possible to change the ignition timing during tuning. The lead is set once and forgotten.

We sharpen the disk from aluminum, but if not, then it can be from any steel, just drilling holes and cutting threads for attaching the sensor will be a little more difficult. But this is later, but while the disk is being sharpened by a turner, you need to make something that will give an impulse to the spark. Namely, to make petals that, when the camshaft rotates, will enter the slot of the Hall sensor and at a certain moment, corresponding to the desired position of the piston, give an impulse to the switch, and the switch will give a 12-volt jump to the primary winding of the ignition coil and from this the secondary winding of the coil will this moment will be discharged by thirty kilovolts per spark plug.

We cut the petals (2 pieces) from an unnecessary cup from the shock absorber (see photo), their width is 15 mm at the entrance to the hall and 10 mm at the place of welding to the standard system of weights. Why from a glass? Firstly, the thickness of the metal is 1 mm, what is needed for the petal, and the main thing is that the petal at the point of entry into the sensor has a perfectly rounded surface and from this the rigidity of the metal, which is what is needed when rotating and entering the slot of the Hall sensor.

When cutting and finishing the petals, we try to achieve the symmetry of the sides and the absolute sameness of both petals. Speaking of petals: many specialists write that the petal should supposedly be 30-40 millimeters wide, no less, or have some obligatory angle in the extension, for example 25 or 30 degrees, and the joke is that everyone has it written differently. Do not listen - this is complete nonsense and I will explain why.

When a spark is discharged in the engine cylinder, the air-fuel mixture does not ignite from this spark, namely instantly explodes and pushes the piston, I repeat - instantly in a split second and telling her plain language already spit at the moment of the explosion on the duration of the passage of the petal and its width, as well as on what the impulse is set to - with a thin screwdriver or at least a fifty-millimeter petal. Therefore, 10 - 15 mm petal width is enough for stable operation of the boxer at any speed. In addition, the smaller the petal width, the lighter it is in weight, and this is important at high speeds.

Having cut and processed the burrs, we weld the petals with a semi-automatic device to the cam bar of the standard lead weights. Thus, on a boxer engine, we change the ignition to electronic, but leave the standard ignition timing, which varies from speed, and the difference between the weights.

See the figure and photo for the welding place, and the main thing is to weld the petal strictly in the middle to the cam bar. Yes, I almost forgot to say that we use an old-type cam with weights (from six volt opposites), they are better and most importantly more suitable for these purposes (more space).

When buying a cam, check the springs on the weights and if they are loose on the axles (dangling), then you need to tighten them with pliers, or change the cam to another one, if you have a choice.

assembled electronic ignition parts, ready for installation on the camshaft.

When the disk is turned, the next most important operation will be the precise drilling of holes in it for attaching the Hall sensor. Deviations even a millimeter to the right and left are not allowed here.

To accurately mark the holes, you need to do the following: we fix the disk on the motor with three standard M5 screws and these screws must be clamped strictly in the middle of the oval slots in the disk; then we put regular weights with a cam (assembled) on the camshaft and press them with a regular M6 bolt in their place to the camshaft.

Next, we scroll the crankshaft slowly with a kickstarter and set the P mark on the flywheel, which means the moment of the flash ahead; the weights with the petals will respectively turn along with the camshaft and one of the petals will stop at about 3 o'clock, (for everyone in different ways) or at half past three - if you figuratively divide the disk like a watch dial; now we take the Hall sensor and evenly put it on the petal with a magnetic slot, naturally it will stick to the petal with a magnet and there will be no working gap of 1 mm (as in the figure); to set the working gap as in the figure, you need to insert cardboard 1 mm thick and 10x10 mm in size on both sides of the petal, and if the lower edge of the petal rests on the bottom of the sensor (where the gap is written in the figure), then we grind it and, as a result, we also achieve a gap in 1 mm.

Now the sensor is fixed in its place, with the help of two mm cardboards and lies flat on the rotary disk - this means that you can circle the holes in the sensor with a thin needle and mark exactly the future holes on the disk. But before drawing future holes on the disk with a needle, you should carefully turn the Hall sensor counterclockwise along with the petals, pulling the springs of the weights to the end (spread the weights) - only now we mark with a needle the places for drilling the holes that secure the sensor.

Having drawn circles of holes with a needle, remove the weights and the disk, core the drawn circles in the center and drill carefully with a 2.5 mm drill, and then with a 4 mm drill. To accurately drill holes, I advise you to work on a small drilling machine. Having drilled holes, we cut the M5 thread in the disk and drive holes in the plastic of the Hall sensor with the same tap. It remains to fix the sensor on the disk using short M5 screws and after tightening them, turn the disk over and grind off the protruding threads of the screws on the other side (flush). It is advisable to seal them from the back, or you can use thread sealant.

After that, we put the disk with the Hall sensor fixed on it in place, clamp it with screws (in the middle of the oval holes) and put weights with petals on the camshaft (we don’t clamp them yet) and check by rotating around the camshaft whether the petals cling to the sensor. Ideally, it should be as in the figure - on all three sides, between the petal and the walls of the magnetic slot of the sensor, there should be gaps of 1 mm.

If the sensor catches a little somewhere, then we try to bend it, if it catches a lot, then you have to digest the petals in a new way. To prevent this from happening, when drilling the sensor mounting holes, do everything slowly and carefully, constantly rechecking everything.

Remember, all this is done once, and having done everything clearly and beautifully, you will subsequently forget about ignition problems for many years - there is nothing to wear out. As they say, measure seven times, cut once (or drill).

After assembling the entire system and clamping the rotary disk with the sensor with M5 screws to the engine housing (screws in the middle of the slots in the disk), and the cam with weights and petals to the camshaft, it remains to pass three wires through the regular hole in the motor block and solder them according to the wiring diagram shown above to hall sensor. Now you can try to start the engine. We increase the gaps on the candles from 0.6 mm to 1 mm, since the spark discharge is twice as powerful as it was on contact ignition.

When starting, it happens that the engine starts, but it does not respond well to the throttle and there is no power. This means that you need to loosen the three M5 screws that secure the disk and scroll it to advance a little earlier or later and tighten the screws again, that is, to achieve a normal set of revolutions. At the turn of the throttle, the engine should instantly respond and gain momentum.

This is done once, marked and forgotten for years. How to check if the advance is correct: you need to set the flywheel to the P mark and then push the weights to the end by hand, one of the petals at this moment should go into the Hall sensor exactly half the petal, if not, then we squeeze the screws and turn the disk and achieve this. And how to set the ignition moment more accurately, using a tester, we read.

four-pin coil for electronic ignition.

When a two-cylinder engine is running, the ignition coil at the time of the flash in one of the cylinders gives a spark in two at once: in one cylinder at the right time at the end of the compression stroke, and in the other cylinder at the time of exhaust it is spent at idle.

This is the principle of operation of a two-terminal coil for electronic ignition. But the discharge energy is quite enough for two discharges at the same time. By the way, I almost forgot to say that having traveled with a flat disk, I decided (probably because there was nothing to do) to carve a cylinder instead of the sensor mounting disk, and fixing the Hall sensor inside it, cover it with plexiglass and generally abandon the standard cover that closes the ignition (see photo). a photo).

Now, when the engine is running, you can observe the work of weights in the window, and the engine in front has become somehow prettier. At one time, I installed a distributor from the eight on this cylinder, and rode with it.

Having traveled for several years with this electronic ignition system, it never let me down, besides, the fuel consumption with it is about 5 liters per hundred (along the highway). But as you know, tuning has no boundaries and I began to think about how to reduce fuel consumption a little more.

This can be done by doubling the energy of the spark in the cylinders and then it will be possible to deplete the carburetors even more, without harm to the engine. How to achieve this? Indeed, in electronic ignition, the spark is already twice as powerful as with contact ignition. There is only one conclusion: install a four-pin coil on the engine, a two-channel switch, and most importantly - two candles to each cylinder.

I gave the cylinder heads to the milling machine, and he made a platform for the candles on the other side of the combustion chamber and, accordingly, drilled and cut the threads for the candles at the right angle. Additional candles are screwed in (see photo) and work on improving the electronic ignition for the boxer engine continues, but this is the topic of a separate article, but for now - success to everyone in your work!

Magazine Radio 1 number 1998
V. GUSEV, Golitsyno, Moscow Region

Due to a number of circumstances, the choice of circuit solutions for ignition units for motorcycle engines is very narrow today. This, of course, creates great difficulties for experimental motorcycle owners in the field of introducing electronics to two- and three-wheeled vehicles with a two-stroke engine. This article describes a simple thyristor ignition unit for two-cylinder motorcycle engines with two ignition coils. According to the scheme, it does not claim to be a fundamental novelty, but captivates with the sophistication of the design, does not require scarce parts, and is unpretentious in operation. On his motorcycle with this block, the author traveled for more than a dozen seasons.

principled ignition block diagram for a two-cylinder motorcycle engine equipped with two ignition coils (for example, the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle). shown in fig. 1. The structure of the block is traditional. On two transistors VT1, VT2 and transformer T1, a converter of the on-board supply voltage to an increased one (310 ... 320 V) is assembled, which feeds the two-channel ignition pulse shaper. The channels according to the scheme are exactly the same and each is loaded with its own ignition coil (12.13).

The generation frequency of the converter is -3000...3500 Hz. With an on-board supply voltage of 6 V, the unit consumes 0.4 ... 0.5 A at idle (ignition on, engine not running), at maximum crankshaft speed - no more than 3 A.

The increased direct voltage from the output of the rectifier bridge VD1-VD4 charges the storage capacitor C3 through the diode VD5 and the primary winding of the ignition coil 12. When the contacts SF1 of the breaker are closed, the starting capacitor C5 is charged from the on-board network through the resistor R3. At the moment they open, this capacitor is discharged through resistors R9. R10. diode VD7 and the control transition of the trinistor VS1.

The trinistor that opens at the same time discharges the storage capacitor C3 to the primary winding of the ignition coil. The discharge current pulse generates a high voltage pulse in the secondary winding of coil T2.

The VD9R5 circuit reduces the discharge time of the storage capacitor C3. which improves node performance. Resistor R7 creates a delay in the charging time of the starting capacitor C5. which protects the node from false operation when the contacts of the SF1 breaker contacts bounce at the moment they are closed.

Decoupling diodes VD5 and VD6 at the time of sparking. closing in turn, they ensure the discharge of only one of the two storage capacitors. So. when the trinistor VS1 is open, the diode VD6 is closed. and vice versa.

At the moment of sparking, the output of the voltage converter is closed by a low resistance of the open trinistor VS1 and diode VD5. therefore, its oscillations are disrupted, it ceases to consume current from the on-board network, and at the output of the VD1-VD4 bridge, the voltage decreases to zero. At the end of the discharge of the storage capacitor C3, the trinistor VS1 closes, the converter generator starts again and a new cycle of charging the storage capacitor begins.

To install the unit on motorcycles with a 12-volt on-board network, it is only necessary to adjust the ratings of some parts and the number of turns of the transformer, the circuit remains unchanged. So. resistor R1 should have a resistance of 30 ohms. R2 - 360 Ohm. R3 and R4 - 1.2 kOhm, R5 and R6 - 1.2 kOhm. R9-R12 -200 Ohm. Diodes D9E must be replaced with D223 capacitor C1 - with another one, with a capacity of 5 microfarads for a voltage of 25 V. and C2 -20 microfarads - for a voltage of 25 V.

The current consumed by the unit with a 12-volt supply is approximately half that with a 6-volt supply, the rest of the characteristics remain almost the same.

The transformer is wound on three K31x18x7 annular magnetic cores made of M2000NM1-2 ferrite stacked together. The number of turns of the windings and the brand of wire are indicated in the table. Winding 111 is wound first, then II and I. The turns of each winding are evenly spaced around the ring. Inter-row and inter-winding insulation is made with a woven fabric tape. in one layer and in two or three, respectively. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the space in the clearance of the magnetic circuit is limited.

The unit is connected to the rest of the ignition system circuits through a six-pin connector X1. Any connector that is convenient to use and can withstand the operating current through the contacts is suitable.

The design of the block is arbitrary. For transistors, a common heat sink with an area of ​​​​40 ... 50 cm2 is sufficient, they are fixed without gaskets. SCRs are installed through mica gaskets on a heat sink with an area of ​​​​8 ... 12 cm?. The metal casing of the unit can serve as a heat sink.

The unit, unmistakably assembled from serviceable parts, starts working immediately and does not require adjustment. The capacitance of the capacitor C2 is not critical, and the frequency of the voltage converter depends on the capacitance of the capacitor C1.

Together with the ignition unit, any motorcycle ignition coils for 6 and 12 V can work, as well as automobile ones designed for the classic ignition option.

The presence of the X1 connector makes it possible to quickly switch from electronic ignition to classic. To do this, it is enough to insert a "capacitor" plug into the female part of the connector, the diagram of which is shown in fig. 2.

In conclusion - a few tips and warnings. First, don't forget to remove the capacitors shunting the breaker contacts. Pay attention to the fastening of the transformer - it must be done like this. so that the mounting elements do not form a closed loop around the magnetic circuit.

Do not increase the output voltage of the converter above 320 V. This will only increase the leakage current through the trinistors and adversely affect the reliability of the unit.

On the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle engine, with classic ignition, the breaker contacts open when the corresponding piston is 2.2 mm from the "top dead center". To work with the electronic unit, this value must be reduced to 1.8 mm.

Over the years of operating a motorcycle with an electronic ignition unit, I have more than once had to ride with a battery, and with a battery of galvanic cells, and without a current source at all, starting the engine with acceleration - I don’t remember a case when the unit caused complaints.