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Doors and extensions to them. Standard sizes of extensions for interior doors

First you need to figure out what a supplement is. The additional structure really looks like a regular plank (rail) with a width of 5 cm or more. It is used to continue the door frame (it is a continuation of the door block, it looks like a frame structure mounted on the side of the opening). Dobor also allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure and improves the finish of the doorway.

Let us consider in more detail what is and what are the extensions on the box for interior doors and how specific they are. It is worth remembering that the door trim has a more decorative function. This is expressed in the fact that the doors will work without this element, but the structure will look incomplete. It is rather difficult to talk about the choice and diversity of this product. The components of the doborny bar are only 2 types - ordinary and telescopic dobor.

Let's take a closer look:

Dobor ordinary - is a rail covered with veneer, laminated or without any coating at all. In fact, the varieties of this product can differ only in the decorative cladding of the material, as well as in width. The width can vary from 95 mm to 190 mm, or even 215 mm. But, if you need to close an opening of 700 mm, you can’t do with extensions here - the structure will not be strong.
The telescopic dobor is a door trim for interior doors. Moreover, with the help of this extension, it is possible to cover the doorway of any width. And yet, this extension does not look like the usual type of platband, and the manufacturing principle is similar to lining. The telescopic extension may also differ in the type and color of the material. Also, the width can vary.

A telescopic dobor is not a platband in the usual sense, but it performs its main functions. Increases the width of the door frame. The increase literally occurs due to the installation of a telescopic casing in the groove, where you can adjust it, wedging deeper or immersing it to a shallow depth. Thus, the missing space of the door frame is compensated.

The dimensions of the telescopic extension for doors between rooms vary between 95-165 mm.

Dobors can be divided into two types - a standard telescopic door trim and its extended version (if I may say so). The standard type - only one corner and nothing more - its main task is to thicken the box within a couple of centimeters. In contrast, the extended version of the telescopic types of extensions thickens up to 150 mm. As a rule, a set of this type of architraves is added with one more additional component, which has an original slot for the corner trim. Both options brilliantly cope with their direct task, and they differ little from each other.

What is the thickness of the door frame of the interior door

A little earlier there was already an explanation of what a door frame is. When installing interior doors, you need to understand what are the nuances of the installation. Installation of doors between rooms in an apartment or house is almost the final part of the repair, which is most often entrusted to professionals in their field, and you need to be serious with additions at this stage.

Let us consider in more detail the types of telescopic architraves, according to the material and size (these are those few differences), we can distinguish the following classification:

Materials. There is nothing fundamentally new here - everything is very standard. Platbands can be made from wood, chipboard and MDF, coatings can also be varied - laminated, plastic and others. There is no problem in the choice of material. It is easy to decide - what are the doors, such is the casing.
The dimensions of the telescopic casing are a convention. It all depends on the approach to business, it is also worth remembering that the wider the casing, the more expensive it is.

Let's decide what is the thickness of the door frame, or in another way the doorway. The door frame has several parameters: height, width, depth, length, including thickness. The manufacturer always takes the standard thickness of typical walls as a basis, in most cases it is about 75 mm. This information should be taken into account when choosing interior doors.

If these parameters are not taken into account, then installation work and fastening of the opening will cause difficulties.

The good news is that there are currently standards, including those for the dimensions and parameters of doorways. It remains only to perform a competent approach to the choice of material and the design itself, as well as to calculate the optimal dimensions. All these actions will help you choose an interior door - which will last a long time and will please the residents of the house with the aesthetic appearance. And also will be safe home furnishings.

Determining the dimensions of the doors

Let's go directly to the key points in the installation of door extensions. It is worth remembering that the door installation technology also includes the installation of a door block and extensions, so preparation is necessary.

The main thing in any work will be the cleaning of previously used materials (such as foam, when installing the unit).

Next comes main job- adjusting the bar, which is cut to the required length. Later comes the fit and width. The installation of the rails comes from above, then the side rails are adjusted, and they are correctly fastened to the box.

Installation can take place in several ways and with different installation methods (more precisely, means and tools):

The easiest is to screw the rails to the door frame with self-tapping screws.
Another option is mounting with dowel-nails. But this method can still cause difficulties, since in the process there is a possibility that you will have to use foam for a more durable fastening.
The last way is to install only on mounting foam. But this method also has its limitations and is only suitable for those options where the box thickness is small.

It is worth noting that the telescopic dobor is installed practically in the same way as a conventional one. The only difference is in the technology of connecting individual strips.

Do I need an extension for the door frame

It's no secret that doors in a house or apartment, and accordingly door frames, have different parameters and their characteristics (bathroom doors are less wide than interior doors and even more so, it is worth recognizing the widest entrance doors). Therefore, there are standards and their size ranges. When measuring the width of the door frame, you should measure the width of the doorway itself, measure the width of the door frame, and also do not forget about the width of the door leaf. All these parameters must be taken into account among themselves.

No matter how beautiful and convenient extensions are, their installation is not always required. Note that extensions are installed in cases where the width of the box is much less than the width of the cut of the wall opening and to frame the doorway.

Selection rules: extensions for interior doors (video)

You can always consider a simpler option, and not install extensions on the door. Thus, it is necessary to evaluate and make a decision in accordance with whether extras are needed in this case.

Simply installing a door for a presentable opening is not enough. In order for the door - at least the entrance, even the interior - to look good, it is necessary to decorate it with the help of platbands and extensions. These details will complete the installed structure, and make appearance more tidy and respectable. It is about dobors that will be discussed in our article. We will find out what types and sizes of these elements are, what extensions are in general, how to choose and install them yourself.

Description

talking plain language, extensions are strips made of the material corresponding to the door, which mask the wall in the opening. Thus, these details in a peculiar way "get" the missing width of the door trim. Hence, in fact, their name.

door extension- uh then a flat wooden or plastic plank that covers too wide slopes at the doors. Sometimes, of course, the door frame itself and the platbands are enough to cover the entire “stuffing” of the doorway. But now, when many houses and apartments are being built according to individual projects, more and more often these elements are not enough, so that the “bare” side walls of the opening remain in sight. This is where the extensions come to the rescue, completing the installation of the door, and giving the whole composition a finished look.

You may also be interested in information about what types there are.

We will find out what parameters of door extensions are standard, and whether it is possible to manufacture these parts according to individual measurements.

Without a doubt, in addition to the standard parameters of extensions suitable for typical doors, it is possible to order the entire “economy”: the door itself, trim, frame and extensions according to individual sizes. To do this, contact the company located in your city that manufactures these products. But more often, after all, people acquire extras of standard sizes. This is understandable - after all, most people live in standard apartments with a standard thickness of doorways.

So, now the height of a typical door, which is mass-produced, is two meters. Therefore, the accompanying accessories: platbands and extensions also have a similar length. But the euro-version is also in stable demand, when the length of the canvas with components is 2.10 meters.

The situation is quite simple with the width of the extensions: most often, finished products with a width of 10 cm to 40 cm are on sale.

The thickness of the part also matters. It should be identical to the thickness of the door frame groove. It is best to measure everything carefully before buying several times. In most cases, this thickness is 10 mm, however, in individual apartments and houses it can vary, but not significantly.

Attention: it happens that in the purchased door frame the groove for the addition is not provided. In this case, if you plan to install extensions, you can make a groove yourself by sawing it out with a router.

Kinds

Find out what types of door extensions can be found on sale, and how they differ.

The standard types of extensions are as follows:

simple without edge;
with edge;
telescopic.

Door forms.

The first two types are straight, even planks, with even side cuts. It is best to choose an extension with an edge, since the existing trim may not cover the entire cut of the part, which will affect the overall appearance of the structure, giving the door a sloppy look. Simple extensions are mounted directly on the wall in the opening.

Telescopic dobor - a more modern and "advanced" look. The difference from the simple one is that the telescopic one has a special groove, with which it becomes possible to firmly and securely attach the part, even without glue. Fastening is carried out according to the principle of a laminate: whoever saw the grooves in this flooring or mounted it himself knows what it is about. Telescopic products are also good because they can be used to mask an opening of any thickness.

What are telescopic extensions for interior doors read.

In addition, dobors differ in the type of material from which they are made. Usually this detail corresponds to the material of the door leaf: a wooden door is supplied with wooden extensions, a plastic one - with plastic ones.

Wooden dobors are made from a board: edged, even, sometimes tongue-and-groove. But modern standards are increasingly forcing manufacturers to offer their customers extensions from MDF. In this case, the part is made in this way: thin MDF plywood sheets are attached to the wooden frame. Inside, such extensions are not solid, but are made according to the honeycomb principle, which makes them much easier and more convenient to install. On top of them, a decorative coating of veneer, PVC film or plastic is applied.

Mounting

Let's get acquainted with the process of installing door extensions. Let's consider the installation of a standard extension for an interior door.

We note right away that this type of work is always carried out after the installation of the door leaf and the frame, and after the mounting foam used during the work has hardened.

If the door frame is equipped with a groove, it must be cleaned of dirt, dust and foam residues. If there is no groove, it is necessary to cut it out with a milling cutter.

First, the upper dobor is installed - above the doors. Adjust this part to fit the length, cut only after careful measurement. The width also needs to be adjusted, but it is better to do this after trimming to length. Work on adjusting the width and length is most conveniently done using an electric jigsaw, which will allow you to quickly and accurately cut off unnecessary parts of the material.

To install the corrected part, you must first use wedges to free up space between the frame and the doorway. This is necessary to avoid the appearance of cracks.

A bar is installed, and then the evenness of the installation is checked: the joints are necessarily controlled, and, if necessary, corrected by wedging. After the control check, making sure that everything is level, the gap between the bar and the opening is blown with mounting foam at low pressure. Platbands are installed only when the foam hardens completely, that is, not earlier than the next day.

You will also be interested in information about insulated wooden entrance doors, which you will read about.

Attention: all work must be done as carefully as possible, since carelessly cut and somehow installed extensions can spoil the appearance of any, even the most expensive door. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to invite a specialist for this simple but delicate work so that the door is guaranteed to get the proper look.

How to choose

People who are far from construction and finishing work may find it difficult to choose extensions in a store or on an Internet site. Therefore, we will give some useful recommendations to facilitate this difficult choice.

When buying, pay special attention to the fact that as a result of work general form doorway looked harmonious. This is the main task, so the selected decorative details must match the color and material of the door. In addition, it is necessary that the patterns and texture of the materials are identical.

It should be noted that there are no special differences when choosing extensions for entrance metal and wooden interior doors: the principle is the same. The main difference is in the installation, since the metal door frame does not have a groove, so you will have to use docking parts.

Pay attention to the cost of materials. It is not worth saving on the addition by buying a laminate model if the door itself is from an expensive array. There will be a clear discrepancy, disharmony, and the general appearance of the door structure will become cheaper.

It is possible that you will need the standard sizes of doorways, which you will learn about.

Before you go to a hardware store or place an order on the corresponding site, be sure to carefully take measurements by setting the exact parameters of the doorway. If the wall where the door is installed has a width of up to 8 cm, then you can do without extensions, the box itself and the canvas will be quite enough. But if the wall is thicker, even by 5 cm, it makes sense to think about extensions.

The best option is to purchase extensions in one store and at the same time when you purchase the door block itself. In this case, you will be able to pick up decorative details that exactly match the pattern and texture of the door material.

Manufacturers and prices

We will find out which of the modern manufacturers offers customers the best choice of door extensions at the best cost.

Mario Rioli

The company from Tula works, guided by Italian technologies. Therefore, it mainly offers products according to European standards, that is, 210 cm long. So, an addition from this company of a designated length, 10 mm thick and 5 cm wide will cost the buyer 330 rubles. And if the width is 10 cm - 640 rubles.

matadoor

The Yaroslavl brand also works according to European standards. The company can offer customers, including telescopic extensions. A product 210 cm long, 10 mm thick and 10 or 15 cm wide will cost 440 rubles.

If the width increases to 40 cm, the cost rises to 1100 rubles. The telescopic version with a width of 15 cm will cost the buyer 500 rubles.

Uberture

A manufacturing company from Reutov offers extensions at a low price with good quality. So, a euro-length product, a standard thickness of 10 mm and a width of 10 cm will cost only 270 rubles. If the width is 15 cm, then 380 rubles. In addition, this brand offers customers a non-standard width of 20 cm at a price of 500 rubles.

Astral Design

The company from Korolev near Moscow can boast of really good product quality. Therefore, the prices here are higher than others. So, a euro-length product 10 mm thick and 10 cm wide costs 600 rubles. A width of 15 cm will cost the buyer 700 rubles, and 20 cm - 800 rubles.

Video

In the video, they will tell you how to properly measure the extensions and platbands for interior doors.

Dobory, or doborny boards, are installed in the frame of the door, if the width of the door frame (jamb, "loot") is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily soiled slopes. (if you are interested in other ways of finishing slopes - read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door, and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. Waterproof plywood BS (aircraft plywood), pasted over with a decorative self-adhesive film, is very well suited for very thick or damp walls or backing pads: BS plywood does not delaminate and does not crack during fine processing of edges and does not warp from moisture.

Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.

However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional boards made of MDF with a decorative coating. The standard dimensions of factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 - 550 mm. For cases when it is necessary to make type-setting extensions on thick walls, extensions from MDF with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

According to standard technology, extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and lining (slipped under it).

Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with moderate temperatures and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value from alteration (for example, if the door is an antique or a museum piece).

If the door is slanted

If the door jamb is skewed and the deviation of the upper bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is fitted to the slanting frame, the installation of extensions without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its skew indicates structural defects, without correcting which the extensions will not immediately give a look, and subsequently they will warp and split.

Tools and accessories

To install the door extensions, you will need some additional tools: a manual wood milling machine, a manual circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with soft sheathing of the bed. The clamp is most needed in order to press the saw against the stool with the disc up, to get a convenient mini-circular. It is possible to tighten the clamp with a soft one by successively putting on it and heating over a gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, a heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.

Of the accessories, you will need 3-4 stools of the same height and not staggering, 4-5 wooden planks of approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, with a dozen wedges from the same rail and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packaging plywood or drywall.

Door installation process

Base plane picking

In the doorway prepared for the installation of extensions, you must immediately beat off reference plane, and mark her footprint on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; a "magic triangle"). We will give explanations to the figure on how to do this:

Half the width of the doorway along the bottom is considered equal to three base lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then its half is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
From the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long, we make two marks. From their intersection at point B to point O (middle of the opening) should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the opening plane, and all horizontal measurements can be taken from it; the desired vertical accuracy will give a plumb line.

Note: if you have the opportunity to use the laser projector of the base surfaces, then the described procedure is not needed. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or locksmith's large square: the error will be greater than the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

What to do if the walls are sloping

When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they are sloped, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be reduced to zero on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing to be done, when cutting additional boards to size, you will also have to cut them into a wedge.

Foam blowing

After installing the extensions, the slots are blown out with mounting foam before plastering. The foam expands as it solidifies and creates a fairly significant pressure. To prevent the finished door jamb from this, you must follow the following rules:

Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely cured.
Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed - install on friction, but not tight. The spacers should support the extensions, not push them apart.
Do foam blowing with uniform movement around the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent - after the complete solidification of the previous one.
There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. "Re-plastering" later is better than "re-plastering" now.

Immediately with the box

The most technologically simple case is to install door extensions with your own hands when installing a new door along with the door frame. Such an operation is performed in the following order:

On the stools we lay the door jamb with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with diagonals: they must be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail a wooden plank to the bottom with small nails equal to the length of the upper plank of the door.
If the jamb is without a quarter for dobors, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.

Example: additional board - 16 mm thick (standard MDF thickness). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.

Along the perimeter of the door frame, we attach strips of plywood or drywall to the outside so that they protrude up the width of the additional board. Solid framing is not needed, two trims are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sidewalls. We nail plywood with carnations; drywall will have to be fixed with self-tapping screws.
We cut the extensions to size. The top bar of the extension should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the upper quarter, and the side ones to the size of the sidewalls of the box.
On both sides of the quarter we apply liquid nails or any mounting glue for wood.
We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
We remove the temporary lower bar that kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
Align the box to the base plane.
We align the box in width with the help of wooden slats-spacers; while checking the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
Knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve the horizontality of the upper bar of the door.
We blow out the cracks with foam and plaster flush with the surface of the wall.
We nail the skirting boards, cut them to size and glue the trim with liquid nails - the door with the extensions is ready.

Finished door and straight slopes

In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen and a half or two thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. Thereafter:

We knock down the plaster from the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then it remains to choose additional boards in thickness.
We cut the extensions to size, but not as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box on top; lateral - in the size of the lateral quarters.
We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side extensions, insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
We adjust the height of the dobors with wedges from below, as described.
We insert in turn the spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and we support the extensions from the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - just two, suspended in advance.
We apply glue not to the tops of the side extensions, to the inner edge of the upper extension board (or a quarter), and lay the upper extension board.
After the glue has hardened, blow it with foam and decorate as described.

If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:

Reverse quarter. With a milling machine, we remove a quarter on the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extension. With “not very” inclined walls, this option is convenient in that a quarter on the extension can be made oblique in width, and such an extension will hold no worse than “normal”.
If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame, and put underlays. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light, but thin.

In both cases, the extensions are installed with the help of auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

slope slopes

If the slopes of the doorway are with a slope (expanding opening), then, regardless of whether the door is a new one or an existing one, the extensions must be placed next to the standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you get a very wide gap. After blowing foam behind the casing, there will be a space where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later cracks and/or dips form there.

Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be brought to a wedge along the length, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After trimming to size, the extensions themselves will take the form of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of extensions in this case has no special features.

Interior doors

As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite to the door hinges. But when installing the extensions of interior doors, it is possible that they will have to be installed from the side of the hinges. If so, then you first need to check whether the extensions interfere with the opening of the door.

If with a fully open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there is a gap equal to the thickness of the extension with a margin of 2-3 mm, there is no problem: we put the extensions in any of the ways described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the box, you need to put underlays, having previously knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: only 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the extension eats up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the extension will soon be damaged.

Read about the full cycle of interior door installation here.

steel doors

It is possible to install extensions on steel doors only with lining ones. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge, you need to use a circular saw to select a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width in the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is for this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame enters it, the box will keep the extension with it.

More information about the nuance of installing entrance doors can be found here.

Type-setting extensions

When covering walls with MDF panels, laminate, etc. The selection of the door frame can be done in typesetting from pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already refers to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of extensions.

Video: full installation cycle of an interior door

If you have no experience in installing door fittings, but you really want to do everything beautifully and neatly, then you need telescopic extensions for interior doors. Next, we will step by step analyze what it is, what such accessories are made of and what are the sizes of telescopic extensions for interior doors and entrance doors, and for practitioners we will clearly show the installation of extensions with our own hands.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors are considered the best way out for a novice master.

To begin with, let's look at what an extension is and how a telescopic extension differs from a regular one.

Dobor called a bar that is installed on the end of the doorway and is located between the door frame (chute) and the outer door trim framing the doorway.

Dobors are not installed on all doors. If the wall thickness does not exceed 140 mm, then in principle you do not need any extensions. Such fittings are installed only if the doorway is located on a thick wall or wall and the thickness of the box is not enough to cover the end of the wall completely.

Professionals distinguish 3 types of extensions:

telescopic structures;
Straight planks with an edge;
Straight planks without edges.

Between themselves, additional strips differ only in installation technology and appearance.

As shown in the diagram above, the options with and without an edge differ only in the presence of this very edge. The edge does not perform any practical function, only decor. The price of planks without an edge is a little lower, but believe me, such savings are not the best way out.

If the platband moves a little, then the owners will either have to glue the end of the plank with something, or pick up the paint to match the platband. In any case, both options will be noticeable and they look, to put it mildly, not very beautiful.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors differ from ordinary straight ones by the presence of a groove at the end, which faces the casing. On the opposite side in such structures there may be a spike, a straight cut or the same groove.

There is a small nuance here, for the normal installation of a telescopic extension, a special groove must be cut on the door frame. In turn, the platbands also need to be taken not simple, but L-shaped. Moreover, the groove on the box is cut in the factory using a special tool. At home with their own hands, and even not a very experienced master, such work is beyond the power.

Under the telescopic extension, you need to take a door frame with a groove and an L-shaped platband.

By the way, if you decide to install ordinary straight additional strips on your opening, then step by step instructions for installation and practical advice on choosing this product can be found

Subtleties of choice

It is advisable to buy such fittings immediately, along with the door frame, because after installing the door frame it will be difficult to guess the shade of the extension.

Selection of planks by size

A telescopic extension for an interior door and a similar design for an entrance door differ only in thickness and material of manufacture. We will talk about the material a little later, but now we will analyze what sizes of telescopic extensions exist.

The thickness of the telescopic extension for interior doors starts from 10 mm.

Since the design is equipped with an end groove, its thickness cannot be less than 10 mm. Although in fairness it should be noted that there are strips in which the main body of the extension has a thickness of about 7 mm, but in such strips there are overlays along the edges that form a groove.

The thickness of the extensions for interior doors ranges from 10 to 14 mm. They can also be used under entrance doors, but still, if conditions allow, then for entrance doorways it is better to take strips thicker than 15 - 25 mm.

Under the openings for the entrance doors, it is advisable to take additional telescopic slats thicker.

In the windows of building stores, you can now find telescopic additional strips with a width of 90 mm to 400 mm. But the most popular sizes are 90 mm, 130 mm and 170 mm.

The most common telescopic designs are 90, 130 and 170 mm in size.

If you need a non-standard, very wide additional bar, then it can be ordered at any workshop specializing in the manufacture of doors or furniture assembly. But you can go the other way and assemble such an addition from several planks.

If the smooth joining of straight bars is rather problematic, then telescopic structures are easily joined using thin connecting bars, in the diagram below this the structural element is listed as a "fixing element".

It will not be difficult to assemble a wide extension from several telescopic slats.

As for the length, the dimensions of the telescopic slats range from 2150 mm to 2500 mm. For narrow interior doors, for example, in services, it is advisable to take long strips, there is less waste from them.

By the way, in stores there are often substandard additional trims, for example, scratched or chipped, such trims are much cheaper. If you have the right color, then you can save money by taking 2 normal strips for side extensions and 1 substandard one, for the upper crossbar, because you still have to cut it and the damaged part will be cut out.

Standard complete set of structures with telescopic extensions.

What doboris are made of

In general, additional slats are made of MDF, natural wood, chipboard, plastic and metal. But telescopic structures are only wooden, made of MDF and chipboard.

Natural wood - it makes sense to take extensions from natural wood only under a similar door leaf. If you have a hollow door leaf with a laminated finish, then the dissonance between the wood trim and the laminate will be very noticeable;

If you are going to make a telescopic extension with your own hands, then natural wood will be the best material for this.

MDF - this material is now perhaps the most popular in the manufacture of extensions. MDF is not afraid of moisture, is quite resistant to mechanical damage and has an acceptable cost. Plus, under wooden doors, you can take MDF covered with natural veneer, which will be much cheaper than buying a wooden extension;

Veneered MDF is visually no different from natural wood.

Chipboard - this option can be safely called a budget one. Additional strips made of laminated chipboard are the cheapest of telescopic structures, but this is where their advantages end. Chipboard is afraid of moisture, plus thin strips in the grooves break easily, so if there is an alternative, it is better to refuse to install chipboard.

MDF is the optimal material for telescopic extensions.

How to install a telescopic extension

As we already mentioned, the installation of a telescopic extension is much easier compared to the installation of its direct counterparts. The main thing here is to choose the right size of the bar, and then everything is elementary simple.

As a rule, all telescopic extensions are initially equipped with grooves on both sides. So you need to cut off or break off the back of the groove from the side of the door frame and insert the remaining whole spike into the groove of the door frame.

In order for the extension to fit into the groove on the door frame, part of the groove on it must be removed.

After that, all you have to do is insert the L-shaped trim into the dobor groove and adjust so that everything fits exactly. If the platband is attached to the wall, then it makes no sense to put the additional plank on the glue, plus the non-glued structure can be disassembled if necessary. The video in this article shows the entire installation clearly.

Output

As you can see, the telescopic dobor is simply mounted. The main thing is not to forget about the recommendations that we gave when choosing the material and you will succeed.

Most factory doors are designed for a standard wall thickness of 7-8 cm for city apartments. Therefore, the owners of suburban buildings, whose walls are most often much thicker than apartment interior partitions, have to adapt to the realities proposed by industry. The sections of the opening that are not blocked by the door frame are plastered, finished with drywall or plastic. However, it is much simpler, easier, faster to install an extension on the door, which is a kind of door frame expander.

Video - installation of telescopic extensions

Why install an add-on at all?

Extensions are two vertical posts and one upper horizontal bar designed to increase the “coverage area” of the box. Simply put, they expand the door frame. They are made from solid wood, MDF and fiberboard.

These slats can be purchased together with the door unit or purchased separately. The extensions do not differ in a super-complex design, and the home master can easily make them himself from lumber or slabs that replace wood.

Various installation methods

Assembled from three components into a single whole, the expander-addition "in full face" copies the letter P, it is attached:

or directly to the door frame;
or to the wall in the opening area;
or on a mounting bar located between the vertical planes of the opening and the extensions.

Since no one will “put” a special mechanical load on the extensions, sometimes only liquid nails are used to fix in a specially made recess. But mostly they are mounted using galvanized self-tapping screws. If fastening is done from the front side, the fastener caps are hidden with mastics or matching plugs.

Reasonable benefits of extras

Extremely high speed of construction and installation of a door block expanded with extensions.
The absence of "wet" finishing processes, unfavorable for the neighborhood with wood.
The maximum increase in the period between regular repairs.

And unconditional aesthetic priorities, providing the impression of the integrity of a presentable door structure.

Extensions for boxes with and without a groove

You can buy doors for arranging a country building:

with boxes, in the outer side of which a grooved quarter is pre-selected for alignment with extensions;
with a box beam without the above fixture.

With the first option, everything is relatively simple. For him, wooden or chipboard planks of centimeter thickness are suitable. The width of the slats-panels is measured with the base box installed in the opening. It is possible without it, but it is necessary to take into account that the addition only complements it. Defines the width distance from the edge of the opening to the end of the recess-quarter in the box. That is, the width of the extension is equal to the sum of the width missing to completely cover the opening and the transverse size of the recess. Most often it is 1 cm, but there may be other options.

Attention. All measurements must be taken at several points. Preferably at four. It is possible that the readings will differ. In case of deviations, the maximum is taken as the base size.

When fully assembled, the end line of the extensions should be flush with the opening line. Millimeter surpluses are squeezed with a planer, subsequently everything is closed by cashing.

The additional extension of the door structure with a groove only needs to be nailed to the base that is not installed in the opening on the reverse side with small galvanized nails in increments of 20-35 cm.

If the contractor has at his disposal a box beam without a notch made by the manufacturer, he can:

choose a quarter on your own with a milling machine with a built-in ruler and a straight cutter, after which the box automatically switches to a clan of door elements with a device for installing an extension;
attach extensions to the box beam through holes drilled through from the end with self-tapping screws;

Note. The diameter of the through holes for fastening the trim strips to the box is not the same along the entire length. First, use a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the screw head, then equal to the size of its barrel.

install additional elements on bars screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws, place the first of them 20 cm from the floor surface and then after 55-60 cm;
“plant” the extensions together with the box inside a kind of plasterboard or plywood base;
connect the box beam without a quarter with the slats of the extensions by installing a rail passing from the outside of the structure along the entire alignment line;
fasten the above-described rail or planks of plywood not in a continuous strip around the perimeter, but in separate segments.

Note. You need to nail both the beam and the dobor strips to the rail, its central axis should coincide with the connection line, but you can slightly shift it.

Depending on the massiveness of this addition to the door block, the owner himself chooses how to install extensions on the door. Any of these options is simple and quite feasible with your own hands.

The standard algorithm for installing add-ons

Usually, the upper plank, combined with the lintel, is superimposed on two vertical elements. To calculate its length, two thicknesses of additional racks are added to the length of the lintel. However, you can place it between them. Then the length of the ceiling extension will be equal to the width of the box, and the thickness of the upper bar must be added to the height of the left and right vertical elements.

So, the installation order:

First, with scrupulous accuracy, we carry out measurements according to the scheme corresponding to the chosen installation method.

Note. For the left and right additions, vertical measurements are taken separately. It is recommended to measure the inner line of the future vertical strip along the box, the outer one in fact in the opening.

The board purchased for the additional device is cut according to the measurements and the selected construction scheme.
We attach all three additional parts to an installed or uninstalled, but fully assembled door frame.
If add-ons were nailed or screwed to a box that was not installed in the opening, it must be installed together with add-ons.
We place mounting wedges between the wall and the extended door frame and, by changing their position, we will align the structure in the opening.
Before blowing the mounting gap with foam, we will install spacer wedges, both between the box beam and between the extensions.
Foaming is performed in portions, at least in two steps we fill the space. We control the curing process, if necessary, make adjustments while the foam hardens. We will complete the work by sealing the gap between the wooden parts and the flooring and installing the trim.

The listed ways of expanding the door unit are applicable to both interior and exterior doors. The difference is obtained only in the width of the additional slats. If an extension is being installed on the front door, most often the width of the standard extension boards is not enough. In such cases, several strips are connected to each other by means of slotted joints or specialized adapters.

If the hinge post is located near a blank wall, the box can be expanded in both directions. If there is no wall limiting the course of the canvas, and the door can “work” at 180º, the box is mounted flush with the outer plane of the opening, and the extensions are located on the side opposite to the opening / closing side. They should not interfere with the use of the door.

That's all the tricks with subtleties. What will be easier, more convenient, faster and more beautiful is up to the home master himself. It is important to know that any existing methods does not require special skills, but it is necessary to stock up on accuracy and attention.