Installation of additional elements of interior doors. What are add-ons? What are supplements for? When dobory for interior doors? Base plane picking

Not everyone imagines what extensions installed on interior doors are. Meanwhile, these elements give the door a finished look. Their installation is not difficult and is quite feasible with your own hands, especially after watching the video with detailed explanations and photos.

What are extras

Visually, they look like horizontal and vertical planks with different textures and sizes. Their installation is carried out between the door frame and platbands, both with their own hands and with the involvement of specialists.

Additional slats are not only functional - strengthening the door frame, but also aesthetic - they mask defects on the slopes. As a material for their manufacture are used:

• board - most often coniferous;
• Fiberboard, MDF, chipboard, laminated or veneered.

An industrial board is a frame made of wood with thin sheets of MDF fixed on it, which have honeycombs inside, which makes them light, due to this, installation is simplified. The finish of the extensions matches the color of the door frame and the door itself.

What are the types of extensions for interior doors

On sale there are strips of various sizes - from 7 to 40 cm. All extensions are divided into 2 main types. They are:

Standard straight, which are ordinary strips. The width of the extensions intended for interior doors ranges from 7 to 20 cm, and the thickness is 1-1.6 cm. Installation is carried out in the opening. The butt is sometimes decorated with an edge. You can attach them with glue or nails. Dimensions are adjusted by cutting off excess material.

Tip: if you need to mount extensions on a previously installed interior door, add attached elements that are close to the box and are slipped under it - lining.

How to properly install extensions on the door between rooms

Doborny boards are installed with their own hands, not only when installing a new door, but also on existing doors. The easiest way to fix the extensions is when installing a new design that is installed together with the door frame. They must be placed in the form of the letter "P". The installation procedure is as follows:

• Stable stools of the same height are put in a row and a door jamb is placed on them, while the inner side should be on top.
• They check whether all the angles are equal to 90 degrees, for which they measure the diagonals - their sizes must match.
• A groove for dobors is selected with a cutter, if it is absent. Its depth and width must correspond to the thickness of the additional plank.

• A frame is mounted along the contour of the box under the door, but not solid, but in separate strips of plasterboard or plywood. It is enough to put 2 segments at the top, and 3 segments on the sides. They recommend fixing plywood with nails, and drywall with self-tapping screws.

• The upper element is cut out according to the size of the upper groove, and the side parts of the extension along the length of the side parts of the door frame.
• Lubricate the edges of the groove with mounting glue or liquid nails.
• Insert extensions, give time for the glue to harden.

• The temporary frame is dismantled, then the door frame is installed.
• The box is leveled: the width dimensions are adjusted using spacers, checking the verticality of the side parts with a plumb line. The horizontality of the top is achieved through the installation of wedges under the side parts of the box.

• Cracks are sealed with foam, a layer of plaster is applied flush with the wall.

• They carry out the installation of platbands and skirting boards - the installation of the door with extensions is done by hand.

Installation of standard simple extensions on self-tapping screws

Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several steps:

1. Determine the width, cut off the excess.
2. Screw the plank to the wall.
3. Customize the sides.

No matter how complex operations you have to perform when installing extensions, the result is worth it. Having done everything yourself, you will be convinced of this.

How to install an extension on the door: video

Types of extensions and their features

Doors play an important role in the interior of any room. That is why their installation and design should be approached with great responsibility. In order for the doors to have an aesthetic appearance, they are usually completed with additional trims. What is the function of extensions for interior doors and how to install them correctly? You will learn the answers to this and other questions from the article.

What is a dobor?

Products are special strips, which are horizontal and vertical, of different sizes and textures. They are installed in the doorway between the casing and the box. The need for this arises when it is necessary to mask defects, to give aesthetics to the door.

What else dobory need - to hide the missing width of the door frame. It is for this reason that the name appeared - dobornik, that is, covering the wide slopes at the openings. In a standard room, there are enough boats, but if an apartment or a house is built according to an individual project, then the platbands do not cope with their task, the extensions help to hide the “bare” side walls. Then the design and interior acquire a complete look.

Given the importance of the element, it is worth taking into account that the additional board should be as similar as possible to the door leaf in texture, color and style.

Reasons for installing slats

Door extensions are needed in cases where there are too wide openings in the room.

To make it more clear, let's take an example. The width of the wall is 200 mm. 70 mm of them will be blocked by a box and 130 mm will be closed with an extension. We add 20-30 mm for the groove and get the required plank size (150-160 mm). An additional element is needed only if the platbands are planned from two sides: internal and external.

Ennobling the opening with extensions is a relatively new trend that is gaining popularity. When thinking about how to expand the door frame, it is better to use specially prepared strips. Since the existing casing will not hide an empty wall. Dobors are produced in different widths and lengths, so they completely close the space between the slopes and the door leaf.

Materials and design features

Depending on the form and method of fastening, the types of extensions can be as follows:

Elements are made from a variety of materials. Depending on the raw materials used, door trims for interior doors are made of wood, plastic or MDF.

Wood dobor is made, as a rule, from natural wood. Ash, beech, oak and conifers are used. The additional beam can be edged or tongue-and-groove. It is extremely important that the door leaf and the additional element are made of the same material. This will avoid visual dissonance.

Dobor from MDF is the most requested. It is lightweight, resistant to mechanical damage and easy to install. It is made from a fine-fiber fraction, and is covered with a laminated film or natural veneer on top. Such extensions will be a good addition to both wooden doors and hollow door leaf.

Items from PVC or simply plastic Dobory for doors can be attributed to the number of budget options. They are low cost, easy to install and do not require additional maintenance. Most often used for front doors.

How to choose the right accessories

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a material for additional products is their compatibility with the door leaf. As mentioned earlier, for the reliability and harmony of the design, they must be made from the same raw material. It is best to purchase items with doors.

The quality of the selected material is also extremely important. The plank should not have any chips or cracks. A flat and smooth surface without defects indicates the good quality of the product.

If your choice fell on telescopic extensions for interior doors, then in this case, first of all, you need to make sure that there are fasteners. These should be special factory grooves, the shape and size of which are individually selected for all interior doors.

It is worth taking into account the price-quality ratio of the selected product. It is best to give preference to trusted brands and manufacturers. Cheap analogues unlikely to be high quality.

Before buying a product, you need to accurately calculate how many additional elements you need. As a standard, 2.5 strips are installed on the door.

Door extensions are available in any size, but standard trims are most suitable for an interior unit. The thickness of the additional element must correspond to the thickness of the groove located on the door frame itself. As a rule, it is from 10 mm to 16 mm. The most suitable width of extensions for interior doors ranges from 70 to 200 mm. If it turns out to be a little more, then it is adjusted by cutting. The height of the parts is 2100 mm.

In addition to standard sizes, the slats are made from the material required by the customer, suitable dimensions. Those who live in an apartment or house with an unusual layout are forced to resort to this option.

To independently determine the parameters of the addition, you need to measure the thickness of the wall, the height and width of the doorway. It is necessary to add a small margin of 1-2 cm to the measurements obtained. This is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of error.

Do-it-yourself installation of dobors on interior doors

Korovin Sergey Dmitrievich

Master of Architecture, graduated from the Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

To give the doors a final look, special strips are installed. Consider how to choose the size of the extensions for interior doors and correctly install all the elements.

What is a door trim

Extensions are specialized planks that differ in parameters and textures. They are attached to the openings and close the slopes.

They are placed in several situations:

• If the width of the box does not match the wall thickness (masking irregularities, sealing slopes);
• To strengthen the mounted canvas, eliminate distortions.

Rice. 1. Door block with extensions

Door extensions for interior doors are an important detail, so they must be chosen according to the style, shade and structure of the panel (looks like a frame). They are bought as a set to avoid mistakes. Panels can be mounted in already installed or new doors on one or both sides of the opening (according to the location of the box).

Mounted extensions look prestigious and, based on the overall style, make the interior solid, luxurious or discreet. They are fixed quickly and easily, which saves time and money. When finishing, the door block does not come into contact with wet compositions, does not get wet and does not deteriorate. This prolongs the life of the structure. In comparison with standard slopes, the additional board becomes a continuation of the missing width of the box.

What are the types of donations

Everyone chooses the technique of mounting the slats, you can do it yourself or turn to professionals. For the manufacture of elements, a flat, tongue-and-groove or edged board is suitable.

If the walls are thicker or the installation is carried out in a humid room, then waterproof plywood is considered suitable, which resists various deformations (delamination, cracks). The extensions made at the factory look more aesthetically pleasing and economical. The main material is an MDF panel covered with a decorative layer. In addition to the fact that the finished boards have different dimensions (length 80-550 mm), they differ in the type of material and cost.

Based on the type of construction, the following options are distinguished:

• telescopic;
• standard without edge;
• standard with edge;
• combined.

Rice. 2. Types of extras

Standard elements are simple laminate or MDF slats, with or without veneer or other finishes.. Based on the quality of the end face, they may have an edge. Some experts believe that it is not necessary to glue the facing edge to the edges, since one end is in close contact with the door frame, and the other is closed with a casing. In such a situation, it will be necessary to carry out the installation carefully, since even with a slight deviation, the raw edge will become noticeable.

If you close the end of the plank in advance with an edge tape of the appropriate shade, then minor flaws will not be noticeable. The cost of the edge is low, and you can glue it quickly with a simple iron. Edging of the ends will be preferable, as swelling of the material from moisture is prevented.

A more complex design has a telescopic (type-setting) element that can be attached to another thanks to a special comb and groove on the edge. With it, you can make the lining of the opening of any width. The principle of its manufacture is identical to the lining. The telescopic dobor differs in shade, thickness and type of material. The bar is placed in a groove where it can be adjusted, wedging deeper or plunging to a shallow depth. Installation does not require the use of fasteners. Usually telescopic products correspond to the material of the panel, therefore they are made of plastic or wood.

The combined plank has an angular shape, as it simultaneously plays the role of a trim and an extension. For the production of planks, MDF, fiberboard, waterproof plywood are used, which are veneered or covered with a decorating film.

Do I need an extension for the door frame

In any room, doors and boxes differ in parameters and characteristics. For example, in the bathroom, their dimensions are already interior, more spacious are the entrance doors. Therefore, there are standards and ranges of sizes.

When measuring the width of the box, it is necessary to determine the indicators of the opening and the panel, since all the characteristics are interconnected.

Rice. 3. Scheme and composition of the bar

Regardless of the convenience and aesthetics of extensions, they do not always need to be installed. Their installation is carried out only in a situation where the width of the box is less than the wall opening for framing.

How to choose the right type and size

Planks can be made with your own hands or bought ready-made. On the construction market, extensions with standard parameters are presented (width 0.7-2.5 cm, thickness 0.6-3 cm and length 2.1 m).

To determine the required width of the panel, add the size of the slope to the depth of the groove of the box. With very thick walls, the plank can be 40 cm thick, but it will need to be ordered individually (its parameters should not exceed the dimensions of the groove in the box).

To make planks yourself, you should take wood, MDF, chipboard or plastic.

When using natural wood, it is coated with antiseptic compounds to protect it from decay and extend its service life. Homemade MDF products will differ from purchased ones, since in the latter the cavity between the plates is filled with cellular material. Chipboards are worse than MDF or wood panels in performance and aesthetics, but they can be used indoors.

Planks are less often made of plastic, but if this happens, metal-reinforced PVC panels are used.

Rice. 3. Variety of planks

Installation of additional panels

The following tools are used to fasten the panels in the opening: level, planer, tape measure, jigsaw, hammer and sharp knife. From building materials you will need foam, fasteners and slats. To properly install the products, you must follow the instructions.

Installation of any types of extensions on interior doors can be carried out in several ways:

• Groove mounting. If it is planned to use planks, then it is desirable that the box has a special groove. This will speed up the installation process and allow you to slightly push (or push) the bar inward, increasing accuracy.

Rice. 4 Taking measurements and mounting the bar

The box must be fixed in the opening, therefore, before placing it, the distance from it to the edge of the wall is measured. The size of each slope is made separately at least at 4 points using a building square. Usually these indicators differ. The width of the slope is added to the depth of the groove in the box, resulting in the parameters of the bar. You can trim the dobor with a saw or a jigsaw to the optimal size.

When using telescopic products, platbands and a box of the same type are selected. The assembly of the block is carried out according to the type of constructor, by inserting the protrusions into the recesses of the parts. Glue provides additional strength to panels and platbands.

• Mounting without groove. If there is no groove in the box, then the elements are attached closely. Such an installation requires accurate measurements, detailed fitting of elements and accuracy.

Rice. 5. Fastening with self-tapping screws

The size of the slopes is determined similarly to the first installation method, the parts are cut, the edge is glued to the cuts. Nails are hammered into the end parts in increments of 20-25 cm and their caps are bitten off with pliers. Then they put the side bars, after which the top one is at a right angle and nailed with a hammer.

• Self-tapping screws. The width of the extension is determined, which is screwed to the wall, the side parts are adjusted in size. Holes for self-tapping screws are made and screwed to the wall. After sealing the joints, a casing is attached, furniture plugs are placed to mask the self-tapping screws.

Elimination of gaps after installation

The immobility of extensions can be ensured by fixing them with masking tape to the box and walls. Spacers are placed between the two elements, and in their absence, the gap is foamed. You should take a balloon and introduce foam in small portions (so that the structure does not move). After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife at the level of the wall.

Door extensions allow you to aesthetically decorate the opening. With minimal skills in handling glue, nails, saw and foam, such work can be done independently.

Dimensions of extensions for interior doors

To complete the framing of the doorway, special strips are used - extensions for interior doors, the dimensions of which depend on the parameters of the entire input block. To select auxiliary parts, you will need to correctly calculate the length, width and thickness of the elements. It is also possible to adjust the dimensions of the additional boards according to the data obtained during the installation process.

Materials, design features, types of extensions

Additional strips mask the slopes in cases where the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall. Inserts are placed in the space between the platbands and the box. The materials of additional elements are selected in accordance with the canvas. In order for the color and texture of the decorative inserts to match the doors, it is recommended to purchase the entire entrance structure.

The materials from which the slats are made:

• three-layer plastic panels reinforced with metal;
• from tree species;
• MDF and chipboard panels;
• covered with laminate.

Varieties of extensions in accordance with the installation technology:

1. Standard - ordinary slats, often covered with eco-veneer. The edges of the strip can be raw or framed with an edge tape. If the edge is missing, you will need to perform installation work more carefully. On the ends without edge film, the smallest flaws are visible. Also, the protective layer prevents the panel from deforming when exposed to moisture and temperature fluctuations. The film can be glued independently with an iron.
2. Combined - elements of an angular shape that combine extensions and platbands in one piece. Used for narrow floors. They are built into the grooves located in the box.
3. Telescopic - a complex design that involves fastening with a ridge and grooves. The edge of the plank is inserted at different depths, it can decorate piers of any width. Installation does not require additional fastening.

Standard door sizes

The dimensions of the door extensions correspond to the average dimensions of the door leaf:

1. Standard height - 200-220 cm.
2. The approximate thickness of the plank is 10 cm. Such dimensions provide a tight fastening of the insert into the opening of the box.
3. The width of the elements depends on the thickness of the interior partition. In this regard, the parameters of the slats can be different - 3-20 cm or more.

For private houses and individual layouts, ready-made inserts are not always suitable. It is necessary to order the manufacture of the input structure with additional accessories of a suitable size.

Rules for calculating the width and length of the extension

The width of the extensions is calculated according to the following principle:

1. If there are grooves in the box, it is required to take into account the recess into which a part of the bar is embedded.
2. The width of the remaining opening is measured from the box to the edge of the wall.
3. The parameters of the extensions are determined based on the maximum measurements by points.
4. If measurements are made before installation or after dismantling the door structure, the width of the plank is calculated as the difference between the thickness of the wall and the width of the future box.

Important! Measurements must be taken separately for the top and side panels at least in several places. The surface of the walls is often uneven.

The length of the panel is equal to the height of the side posts of the box. When calculating the dimensions of individual parts of the input structure, generally accepted standards must be taken into account.

The main requirements for the dimensions of the door block, according to GOST:

• the gap between the box and the wall should be 10-15 mm;
• the distance along the perimeter between the canvas and the loot - 3 mm;
• the gap between the door and the floor in the absence of a threshold - 10 mm;
• to improve the performance of sound and heat insulation, sealing strips or a sealant are used.

If the parameters of the additional inserts do not meet the regulatory requirements, you must adjust the dimensions manually using tools.

How to determine the required thickness

The thickness of the additional board should not exceed the dimensions of the groove in the box. The average value ranges from 10-16 mm.

Factory strips are produced in standard sizes, depending on the parameters of the partition:

• if the wall width is up to 9 cm, then the thickness of the decorative insert is 1.5 cm;
• up to 16.5 cm - 1.5 / 2.5 cm;
• up to 26.5 cm - 2.5 cm.

The maximum thickness of finished panels is 3 cm. For non-standard openings, extensions are made to order.

For interior structures, planks of average thickness up to 1.4-1.5 cm are sufficient, and for entrance doors it is recommended to use extensions of 1.5-2.5 cm or more.

What to do if the sizes of the extensions do not fit

There are situations when the dimensions of the extensions are larger or smaller than the remaining uncovered section of the wall. If it is not possible to order new trims, you can adjust the inserts with your own hands.

In the case of too wide elements, you only need to carefully reduce the size of the board with improvised tools (saw, hacksaw). On the front side, you need to make a groove for installing platbands. Difficulties may arise with telescopic rails. The ends of the bar are equipped with grooves on both sides. Such boards are sawn lengthwise, spikes are cut off from the platbands and nailed to the even edge of the extension with nails or studs.

With excessively wide walls for cladding, several additional elements are used, combined with furniture clips, glue, hardboard strips, thin wooden blocks. Telescopic structures are connected by specially prepared thin strips, which are placed in the recess of two adjacent ends.

Another way is to pick up a plastic insert to match the block and sew up a section with a bare wall. It is better to glue on colorless silicone. Such a mount is easily dismantled if something needs to be changed or corrected.

If you plan to independently lining the passage, it is better to buy parts with a margin in measurements. Additional centimeters may be needed to correct flaws or errors in calculations. It is also recommended to simultaneously select all the components of the structure, so as not to miscalculate with the shade and texture of the finished block.

Often, apartment owners face a common problem: the entrance steel door was installed by a qualified specialist in compliance with all stages, but the opening looks aesthetically unfinished. The best solution would be to install extensions to match the canvas, which will give a neat appearance.

Prices for the production of decorative dobor

The door trim is made on the basis of MDF material 10 mm thick, the architraves are 10 cm. The table shows prices for a set of 6 elements (3 trims + 3 architraves).

Price for installation of extensions

* ATTENTION! IN All prices on the site are indicative and are not a public offer.

In order to avoid misunderstandings, we ask you to additionally clarify the cost of the positions and services you are interested in with managers.

Photos of our work

Advantages of our products

Extensions for entrance doors and interior blocks are designed to fill the gaps between the wall and the frame in case of a mismatch between their thickness and dimensions. They serve as decorative elements and are matched to match the color and texture. They are made of MDF panels 10 mm thick, platband 10 cm. This material has the following advantages:

Moisture resistance
and mechanical damage.

Heat and noise insulation properties.

Simple and fast installation.

Wide range of colors, imitation of natural wood, stone, etc.

Practicality and durability.

The company "Spetszamer" offers to buy extensions for entrance doors with installation at a reasonable price. Thanks to this product, you will save money and time on plastering and finishing slopes to create a complete entrance look.

Options for finishing the doorway with extensions

In order for the result of the installation of extensions to meet the expectations of customers, it is necessary to choose and stipulate how the installation work will be carried out. We offer several ways that our specialists own.

• First option. Simultaneous installation of doors with extensions in a single structure, which is mounted in the opening. The free space is filled with construction foam. After that, platbands are installed using self-tapping screws with hidden plugs. As a result, the metal parts of the door frame are hidden from prying eyes.
• Second option. Finishing "in a hook" means decorating the visible parts of the box without affecting the inner opening. Installation is carried out using L-shaped additional elements around the perimeter of the door. This option is more democratic than the first. The disadvantage is aesthetics from the outside, the opening remains unchanged.
• Third option. Installation of extensions after the installation of the front door. First, the necessary measurements of the depth of the opening are made, the width of the platbands is calculated. Planks are fastened, and the gaps between them and the wall are sealed with construction foam. After it dries, platbands are attached around the perimeter of the box.

In our company, customers can order and buy extensions for installation in any of three ways, depending on the desired result and budget. Our specialists will quickly and efficiently perform all work in a strictly agreed time. Phones for communication are listed in the Contacts section.

Sections of the article:

The variety of modern manufacturers and their own technical specifications have led to the fact that the same building material, product may differ in size. Differences in wall thickness make it impossible to actually standardize frame sizes for interior doors. The solution to this problem was the release of a door frame with a minimum allowable width, which guarantees strength, and an additional board that will cover the remaining thickness of the opening wall. What are door extensions and how they are installed - we will tell in our article.

Dobor - what is it

Let's try to briefly explain what dobors are. Dobor called decorative strips of certain sizes and textures for installation in the openings of interior doors, in the event that the width of the wall exceeds the size of the door frame. The photo below clearly shows what this door element is:

Most of the produced modern interior doors are made of wood-fiber materials, in other words, MDF, so the extensions produced for them are also made of it. Manufacturers of solid wood doors practice the production of additional boards from both solid wood and MDF covered with natural veneer. The material of manufacture does not affect the order of installation of the dobor.

Extensions for interior doors may differ in design, as well as have standard widths: 100, 150, 200 and 250 mm.

Depending on what design features are characteristic of the model, extensions are simple or telescopic. An additional board of a simple design is installed close to the box.

The adjustable extension is equipped with a groove on one side and a recess on the other, with the help of which it is connected to the grooves and recesses in the box according to the principle of collecting eurolining. The presence of grooves makes it easier to adjust the protruding part after measurement and prepare the bar for installation, and also allows you to “foam” the door structure faster and easier.

Installation

Door extensions are mounted using foam, finishing nails or self-tapping screws, depending on the preferences of the installer, since the stability of the fastening of the trim does not depend on the installation method of the extension. Experienced installers recommend installing foam extensions, as this method is the easiest and takes less time. Adjustable extension for interior doors is mounted only with mounting foam.

Installation on mounting studs

With a drill with a diameter of 1 mm at the end of the additional plate, which will then be adjacent to the box, holes are drilled at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other, the depth of the holes should be 0.3-0.5 cm less than the length of the carnation. Finishing nails are inserted into the drilled holes until they stop with the sharp end outward. If non-finishing nails are used, then the caps are cut off without fail.

Parts of the dobor are individually strung with the tips of carnations on the door frame. With a rubber hammer or an ordinary metal hammer, nails are driven into the box through a wooden gasket. Accurate dimensions and careful handling minimize the possibility of gaps or cracks that can be repaired by dismantling and reinstalling extensions or by using wood tone plaster. Such corrections worsen the aesthetically pleasing appearance of the extension and testify to the amateurishness of the installer.

The additional structure fixed with finishing nails is strengthened with strips of masking tape, cleaned of possible dirt, dust and slightly moistened. After that, they begin to foam. Dobory do not differ in severity, so the most budgetary polyurethane foam is suitable for installation. After the foam has completely dried, its protruding parts are cut off and you can proceed with the installation of the platbands. WITH step by step instructions how to put extensions on the interior door can be found in the video below.

Finishing nails securely press the extension board to the door frame, but do not keep it from pulling out, which is a significant drawback of this method of installing the extension.

Mounting with self-tapping screws

A hidden hole is sawn from the end side of the plank using a wood drill. The diameter of the drill must be at least 1-2 mm less than the thickness of the additional strip, and also correspond to the size of the screw head. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected in such a way that when drilling they enter the door frame by 2-3 turns. More turns can cause a crack and chip on the box.

The hole is drilled at a distance of 1-2 mm from the front side of the extension, drilling through the wrong side of the bar is allowed. It is recommended to hold the drill at a slight inclination when working in order to exclude the possibility of drilling through the front side of the extension. A sufficient number of self-tapping screws to fix the side part of the good is 4 pieces, respectively, 4 holes are pre-drilled for them.

Installation of door dobors begins with incomplete screwing of self-tapping screws into the intended holes. The additional bar prepared in this way is pressed against the door frame and screwed with a drill. It is recommended to start installing the trim on interior doors with vertical slats and finish with a horizontal board. If you notice that the self-tapping screw is difficult to screw in, do not make excessive efforts. It is recommended to unscrew such a screw for a couple of turns, and then tighten it again.

After screwing the upper bar, it is important to check the design of the extension for a loose fit to the door frame, which is corrected by tightly pressing the bar to the frame with improvised means. For example, construction tape. The entire extension is strengthened with the same adhesive tape to avoid deformation during swelling of the drying foam. For the vertical additional part, 3-4 strips of construction tape are enough, for the horizontal - 2-3 strips. If it is impossible to stick the adhesive tape to an uneven wall surface, use wooden pegs for spacers.

The disadvantages of installing additional screws on self-tapping screws are the complexity and duration of the process, the high probability of cracks, chips in case of unsuccessful drilling or the wrong choice of tools.

Marking of additional strips and installation with foam

Installation of foam extensions is considered the simplest and most fast way, since you do not need to pre-drill or hammer something into the planks. How to put extensions with foam on the interior door?

Fitting the additional board to the size of the doorway begins with the upper horizontal part, which is first cut in length and then in width. The width of the extension is marked with a pencil after fitting the board to the thickness of the wall of the opening, and then the excess board is cut off with an electric jigsaw. The side vertical strips are adjusted in a similar way. An important condition is the accuracy of measurements. Pre-assembly of the extension should not reveal the presence of gaps between the side and top bars.

Dimensional accuracy and aesthetically pleasing appearance after installation depends on measuring tools, for example, a ruler or a construction square. The second option is more preferable because of the greater accuracy and the minimum probability of marking an uneven line for cutting.

Installation of extensions on interior doors begins after you make sure that all parts fit snugly against each other and against the opening. The upper part of the additional board is fixed with the help of improvised means between the door frame and the wall of the opening. The best option is a masking tape, which is characterized by a high level of tensile strength in the perpendicular direction, easily withstands the forces of foam during swelling. Enough 3-4 strips on the side trims and 2-3 on the top board. Another good option for fixing the extension is wedging with do-it-yourself wooden pegs.

Then the vertical strips are installed in such a way that the top strip lies on them in level without gaps or cracks. The side parts are also fixed with wedges or masking tape. Then the resulting space between the extension and the walls of the opening is filled with mounting foam under low pressure. First, the edges are filled pointwise along the width of the opening, and after drying, the remaining void is filled.

Please note that the installation of extensions and platbands is carried out after the foam has dried on the door blocks. Interior doors before the final stage of installation should stand for about a day for the mounting foam to dry.

The telescopic extension bar is installed according to the same principle of action (adjusting the length of the top and side bars), the difference is the technology of gradually building up the structure. It is strongly not recommended to pre-assemble the entire structure and then install it in the opening, since during the filling of empty space with foam, the likelihood of broken connections and distortion of the extension increases. First, the first extension rail is mounted around the entire perimeter, after fixing it, the next one is installed, etc.

Before foaming, it is recommended to clean the surface of the wall and the inside of the finishing board from dust / dirt, if any, and then slightly moisten. A wet, clean surface increases the adhesion of the mounting foam and the subsequent reliability of the foamed structure.

Advantages of installing extensions on interior doors using mounting foam:

• High strength and reliability of the design;
• Elimination of the possibility of spoiling the material by unsuccessful drilling or driving in nails;
• No cracks or chips on the dobor and door frame during installation;
• Fewer actions during work;
• Fast installation;
• Lower installation cost when involving specialists compared to other methods.

We hope that the tips on how to put extensions will be useful and you can easily install them on your interior door.

Mostly all doors that are manufactured in specialized factories are designed for a certain wall thickness. It is in many cases of the order of 70 or 80 mm. But what about the owners of country or ordinary private houses? Their walls are often much thicker than apartment options.

In this case, you can finish the opening with sheets of drywall or do it even easier - apply the installation of an extension to interior doors. The method is simple and requires much less time and effort to implement. Some homeowners plaster openings in places where there is no box. But, nevertheless, the method of installing extensions is less time-consuming and more effective. Therefore, you need to carefully figure out how to fix the extension correctly.

Dobors are two racks located in vertical position, and one horizontal bar. It is located at the top of the opening. Thus, the finished design increases the box itself. Among the commonly used materials for the manufacture of structures, the most popular are fiberboard, solid wood and MDF. They are durable and affordable in their price range.

Measurement and preparatory work

The installation of extensions is necessary first of all in order to securely fix the platbands. It is possible to make the correct fixation of the platbands if the products are placed end-to-end to the plane of the wall. It is best to take measurements with the box assembled and installed. After that, the installation of extensions is already carried out.

Initially, you should put ruler on the platform of the box and keep it strictly perpendicular to the wall. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the upper and lower parts of the product. At the same time, the width of one extension in different parts may differ, since the walls are almost always imperfect. All data should be entered on paper so as not to confuse the parameters of the product.

Many experienced professionals use a more accurate method. Measurement of all additions is made by means of square and flat rail. The first fixture is installed in the seat, and the second is applied to the plane of the wall. Where the square intersects with the rail and there will be a width indicator. The size of each slope must be carefully checked, since an error can be made at any stage.

After the manipulations, proceed to cut the board. This is easy to do with a hand saw. A jigsaw and a stationary machine are also well suited, provided they are available.

Installation

Installing dobors on the interior door with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you need to decide, first of all, with the type of box. They are:

• with groove;
• without groove.

The first option is the easiest. It has everything to safely carry out the installation of extensions. The versatility of the presence of the groove is that it allows you to adjust the position of the extension. And also this device saves a lot of time. By adjusting the bar, it can be immediately fixed to the wall.

Self-tapping installation

The first thing to do is to drill a hole under the screw. As a rule, MDF boards, from which blanks are most often made, are approximately 10 mm in thickness. This means that the drill must have a maximum diameter of 9 mm. In order to more accurately and reliably mount extensions on the interior door, the diameters of the drill and the heads of the screws must match.

Directly, the screws are chosen so long that they literally go a little into the canvas of the box. If the products are too long, the wood will crack. A prerequisite is the use of wood drills. They are characterized by the presence of special protrusions in the form of needles. Such products are capable of accurately centering holes.

When the tool is selected, we drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. In this case, you need to choose not a perpendicular direction, but set the drill at an angle. This method will allow you to fix additional element towards the center of the door frame.

The vertical racks are screwed first with self-tapping screws. After fixing them, proceed to the installation of a horizontal bar.

Installation on carnations

Another very effective way door trim installation is a method of applying studs.

For installation, you will need to drill small holes into which finishing nails will then be hammered.

Critically important - the drilled holes must be less than the length of the nails!

After that, it is necessary to insert the carnations with the sharp side outward, and remove the hats with wire cutters. A mounting bar is often used for driving nails.

When all the fasteners are in place, you can put extensions and gently nail the product, connecting it to the box.

Foam installation

Installing door extensions according to this principle is several times faster than other methods. Products are put in place. After that, they need to be wedged from the inside. Surfaces should be pressed against the door frame. It is possible to fix the opening only after thorough cleaning and mandatory wetting of the surface.

Installation of telescopic extensions

This type of product has its own unique advantages.

• It can be tightly fixed in the overall structure.
• The surfaces are securely attached to each other.
• Connecting the components together is quite simple.
• Dobory with this configuration can be shifted either up or down.
• It is possible to move them inside and outside the product.
• The power reserve of the parts is small, but these millimeters allow you to adjust the position of the extensions as accurately as possible and correct the mistakes that were made during the marking.
• Special "adjustment" grooves make the design convenient and easy to install.

Along with the box

The method is to assemble the entire structure before attaching it to the wall. Both the box and the dobors are assembled into one. Additional elements that expand the opening are attached to the door frame. After that, the finished product is fixed.

The following tips will be helpful:

• Carnations are used solely to press additional panels to the door frame. They do not keep from shifting.
• In the process of drilling holes, a crack can be made on the front side of the product and between the slopes. Therefore, all work must be done carefully.

Mostly all doors that are manufactured in specialized factories are designed for a certain wall thickness. It is in many cases of the order of 70 or 80 mm. But what about the owners of country or ordinary private houses? Their walls are often much thicker than apartment options.

In this case, you can finish the opening with sheets of drywall or do it even easier - apply the installation of an extension to interior doors. The method is simple and requires much less time and effort to implement. Some homeowners plaster openings in places where there is no box. But, nevertheless, the method of installing extensions is less time-consuming and more effective. Therefore, you need to carefully figure out how to fix the extension correctly.

What are add-ons?

Dobors are two racks located in a vertical position, and one horizontal bar. It is located at the top of the opening. Thus, the finished design increases the box itself. Among the commonly used materials for the manufacture of structures, the most popular are fiberboard, solid wood and MDF. They are durable and affordable in their price range.

Measurement and preparatory work

The installation of extensions is necessary first of all in order to securely fix the platbands. It is possible to make the correct fixation of the platbands if the products are placed end-to-end to the plane of the wall. It is best to take measurements with the box assembled and installed. After that, the installation of extensions is already carried out.

Initially, you should put ruler on the platform of the box and keep it strictly perpendicular to the wall. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the upper and lower parts of the product. At the same time, the width of one extension in different parts may differ, since the walls are almost always imperfect. All data should be entered on paper so as not to confuse the parameters of the product.

Many experienced professionals use a more accurate method. Measurement of all additions is made by means of square and flat rail. The first fixture is installed in the seat, and the second is applied to the plane of the wall. Where the square intersects with the rail and there will be a width indicator. The size of each slope must be carefully checked, since an error can be made at any stage.

After the manipulations, proceed to cut the board. This is easy to do with a hand saw. A jigsaw and a stationary machine are also well suited, provided they are available.

Installation

Installing dobors on the interior door with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you need to decide, first of all, with the type of box. They are:

The first option is the easiest. It has everything to safely carry out the installation of extensions. The versatility of the presence of the groove is that it allows you to adjust the position of the extension. And also this device saves a lot of time. By adjusting the bar, it can be immediately fixed to the wall.

Self-tapping installation

The first thing to do is to drill a hole under the screw. As a rule, MDF boards, from which blanks are most often made, are approximately 10 mm in thickness. This means that the drill must have a maximum diameter of 9 mm. In order to more accurately and reliably mount extensions on the interior door, the diameters of the drill and the heads of the screws must match.

Directly, the screws are chosen so long that they literally go a little into the canvas of the box. If the products are too long, the wood will crack. A prerequisite is the use of wood drills. They are characterized by the presence of special protrusions in the form of needles. Such products are capable of accurately centering holes.

When the tool is selected, we drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. In this case, you need to choose not a perpendicular direction, but set the drill at an angle. This method will allow you to fix an additional element to the central part of the door frame.

The vertical racks are screwed first with self-tapping screws. After fixing them, proceed to the installation of a horizontal bar.

Installation on carnations

Another very effective way to install a door extension is the method of using carnations.

For installation, you will need to drill small holes into which finishing nails will then be hammered.

Critically important - the drilled holes must be less than the length of the nails!

After that, it is necessary to insert the carnations with the sharp side outward, and remove the hats with wire cutters. A mounting bar is often used for driving nails.

When all the fasteners are in place, you can put extensions and gently nail the product, connecting it to the box.

Foam installation

Installing door extensions according to this principle is several times faster than other methods. Products are put in place. After that, they need to be wedged from the inside. Surfaces should be pressed against the door frame. It is possible to fix the opening only after thorough cleaning and mandatory wetting of the surface.

Installation of telescopic extensions

This type of product has its own unique advantages.

• It can be tightly fixed in the overall structure.
• The surfaces are securely attached to each other.
• Connecting the components together is quite simple.
• Dobory with this configuration can be shifted either up or down.
• It is possible to move them inside and outside the product.
• The power reserve of the parts is small, but these millimeters allow you to adjust the position of the extensions as accurately as possible and correct the mistakes that were made during the marking.
• Special "adjustment" grooves make the design convenient and easy to install.

Along with the box

The method is to assemble the entire structure before attaching it to the wall. Both the box and the dobors are assembled into one. Additional elements that expand the opening are attached to the door frame. After that, the finished product is fixed.

The following tips will be helpful:

• Carnations are used solely to press additional panels to the door frame. They do not keep from shifting.
• In the process of drilling holes, a crack can be made on the front side of the product and between the slopes. Therefore, all work must be done carefully.

Doborny board (dobor) for the door frame: purpose, types, installation

If you put a door frame and it is smaller in width than the thickness of the wall, this gap must be closed with something. To do this, use the extensions on the interior door. About what they are, how they look, what they are, how to put them, and we will talk further.

What is dobor

When installing interior doors, a situation arises when the box is less wide than the thickness of the wall. In such cases, a special board is used, which is attached to the door frame, closing the remaining space. This board is called the addition to the interior door. There is also the name "additional board" and "additional plank". Then you can attach a casing to it, which will close the gap between the extension and the wall.

Dobor - a board for expanding the door frame to the thickness of the wall

That is, the door dobor is an additional part of the door frame. It is a board of certain sizes, which is joined to the door frame. They put it on one side - opposite to the one into which the door opens. You can also call this board an expander - it displays its real purpose.

If the wall thickness is more than 140 mm, you have to install a door frame expander - an additional board

There may be nuances in the docking of the dobor. Often the shape of the door frame is specific - with a special relief (protrusions, depressions, roundings). Then you will have to look for an extension of this particular company, otherwise it will be problematic to dock them.

Materials and dimensions

Each of the manufacturers produces a certain set of additional boards, in which the length is fixed - 230-250 cm, the thickness / width changes. For example, there are such options (thickness, width, length):

Shape, thickness, width may vary

Thickness and width - each factory has its own. Can be 60 mm, and 65 mm or 75 mm. In general - any set. What if none of them is suitable for your case? Take a larger width than required, then saw off the excess. And if your opening is wider than all available options? Order the right size (many manufacturers make to order) or splice two smaller sizes. Another option is to use telescopic architraves. They come with a fold around the corner, which can cover your lack of width.

If the doors are made of solid oak, it makes sense to put the same extension

What materials are used for interior doors? Of the same as the platbands:

• wood;

MDF and chipboard can be veneered, laminated. Wooden ones can be with or without processing. Match the material and color to the door frame. And this is another reason to buy from the same manufacturer - even if the name of the color / texture is the same, there is no guarantee that they will actually be the same.

Types of extensions

There are two types of doborny board:

• With straight edges. An ordinary board, which is attached end-to-end with a box. May be:
  • with decorative edge;
  • without decorative edge.

  

  Types of extensions for interior doors: telescopic on the left, ordinary - on the right

  Dobor on an interior door with straight edges - the most common board. In this case, it must be selected only by color and size. The dobor is pressed against the box, fixed with screws installed obliquely. One of the ends of the additional plank can be processed. This is necessary if the clypeus can be displaced.

  

  Installing an extension with smooth edges (not telescopic)

  It is not very convenient to mount this type of extensions. You have to think about how not to split the bar, about how to close the caps of the screws. However, it is not necessary to select according to the shape of the grooves / protrusions, which is far from simple and binds only to one manufacturer.

  

  If there are protrusions, grooves, roundings, you need an extension for an interior door of the same company as the box

  The telescopic door extension has pre-formed grooves. From the point of view of docking, this is a very convenient option: they drove the protrusion into the groove, tapped until it completely coincided and the whole installation. But only if the match is perfect. What else is a telescopic extension convenient for? A telescopic casing can be installed in it (if it fits).

  How to install extensions on an interior door

  In this paragraph, we will focus on ordinary slats - with straight ends. They are sold in lengths of 2100-2300 mm. Three strips are needed for one door: One on the right and one on the left, and a piece from the third will go to the top. If you put several doors at the same time and you have them of the same color, one plank will go to the two “tops”.

  

  How to fix extensions on an interior door

  Planks are usually wider and longer than necessary, so they will have to be trimmed. What tool? With what you have. A juvenile who cuts DMF, chipboard or wood is suitable. To decorate the corners, you may need a miter box (if you are going to join the box (and extensions) at 45 °. It is also convenient to use it to “not fill up” the cut and make it strictly perpendicular.

  We take measurements and make blanks

  Before installing extensions on an interior door, you need to find out the exact dimensions of the expansion bars. To do this, we install a door frame in the doorway, fix it. Draw an opening on the plan, it will be easier to write the dimensions. Next, take a tape measure and a level, measure the size of the extensions that you need.

  The width of the extension is determined as follows: we insert the measuring tape of the tape measure into the groove until it stops. We apply a level to the wall, at the intersection with the roulette tape we determine the required width. Measurements are carried out at six points: two on each side. If the wall has an unequal thickness, we take the width of the extension according to the largest figure.

  

  Now, in size, we cut out those that we need from standard planks. Make marks with a pencil - on light strips a simple pencil is clearly visible, on dark ones you can take a white one. We try on the cut-out strips in the opening, if necessary, cut them a little.

  Collecting

  Before you put the extensions on the interior door, they must be connected to each other. We lay out the cut-out additional strips on the floor in the form of the letter "P". If they have a finished edge, lay them out so that the edge is on one side. Planks will need to be connected to each other. If they are made of MDF or chipboard, you must pre-drill holes in the top bar.

  

  Assembly preparation

  To do this, it is better to take a square (ideally, a carpenter's square, but an ordinary school one is also suitable). On the bar we draw a line that marks the middle of the thickness of the bar. If the board thickness is 10 mm, the line runs 5 mm from the edge. If the bar is 15 mm thick - at a distance of 7.5 mm. We put two points on this line, and then we drill holes. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the screws.

  

  We complete the assembly of the dobor in the door frame

  Next, the holes must be transferred to long strips. To do this, we join them, align the edges. Using a drill, we transfer the marks to the end of the bar, then deepen it to the required length (along the length of the self-tapping screw). Having made holes, we join the strips, we twist the fasteners. The addition to the interior door is half assembled. But do not rush to attach the second bar. It is necessary to try on the already assembled “in place”.

  

  Fitting and trimming

  We put the assembled L-shaped part in place, driving the planks into the groove in the door frame. The upper jumper turned out to be larger (we measured it this way). We take a pencil, put a mark where the groove begins. Try to be precise as this is important. The excess can not be cut off. Just draw a line along the mark and make marks on it, then drill holes. After assembly, the letter "P" is obtained. We have assembled the trim for the interior door, now we need to install and fix it.

  Door frame installation

  Now the plugin can be installed. Check opening first. If the doors were placed on the foam, it can block the groove. We cut off the excess so that the slats go in freely. We insert the U-shaped structure into the groove, tapping the butt with the palm of your hand. We start at the top, then on the sides.

  

  We put in place, after removing the excess mounting foam

  We take masking tape, we fix the strips to the walls with it. If in some places the extension to the interior door does not fit snugly against the box (there is a gap), we remove this gap with the help of linings. To do this, you can use mounting wedges. If they are not, make from foam. You just need to set the bar evenly, for this purpose dense foam is enough.

  Attachment box

  It is also necessary to align the addition to the interior door to the level. You should not focus "by eye", use the level. Using a level and wedges, we remove all protrusions and blockages. In the process, we fix the aligned areas with masking tape. The distance between the tacks is 40-50 cm. One at the top and bottom (receding about 10 cm), and further at regular intervals.

  

  How to attach extensions: in the process of installation

  Next, using low expansion mounting foam, fill it with the space between the wall and the additional plank. Read the instructions on the container before use. It may be better to moisten the surfaces. In any case, it is necessary to lay the mounting foam in stages, otherwise it may bend the extension strips. We'll have to tear it all off, clean it and foam it all over again.

  So, first we apply foam deep into the gap. A little, one lane. In parallel, we make strips for the entire width near the “tacks” (an example of applying foam to the door extension in the photo above on the right). The foam in the area of ​​the tacks will give the bar stability, the strip in the far part - near the joint - will press the extension to the groove, but at the same time it will not bend the bar.

  We leave the foam on the side strips to polymerize, but for now we are engaged in filling the gap from above. If it is as big as in the photo, there is no point in transferring a lot of foam. It’s easier to cut a “bookmark” out of foam, put a wooden block of a suitable size. In size, it is slightly smaller than the free space. A gap of at least 1 cm should remain on all sides. But too large gaps are not needed.

  

  How to put extensions on an interior door: fill the top gap

  • Place small pieces of foam plastic 1 cm thick or so under the embedded part.
  • We apply a snake layer of foam on the back wall (if any).
  • We put a mortgage bar, fill the cracks around the perimeter with foam. Again, not too much, so that the foam bar does not bend down.
  • If there is a need, we put the "front" bar (in the photo above, the left bottom). If the bar is wide enough, skip this step.
  • We align the position of the additional plank with the help of a building level, fix it with masking tape.

  After the first layer of foam has hardened (the time is indicated on the bottle), we fill the rest of the space. If the extension on the interior door has a significant width, it is possible (and better) to apply the foam in two stages. But each time you have to wait for the polymerization time. After that, it remains only to install the platbands.

  How to attach an extension to the door frame if it is thicker than the selected quarter

  Often the extension is thicker than the quarter selected in the box. What to do then? How to make it so that the extension rests without cracks and holds firmly? There is a simple way - to drill holes obliquely, screw in self-tapping screws, then close the holes with matching plugs. Here everything is more or less clear, but not very beautiful - the stubs are still visible.

  There is another way. Need hangers for drywall. Only they should be the strongest and thickest. From the hangers we separate the parts of the tape with perforation. Each makes two parts. You will also need small self-tapping screws (fleas). We fasten the perforated tapes to the door frame along the perimeter - at the corners, stepping back 10-15 cm, also from below, and in height at a distance of 40-50 cm.

  

  How to fix the dobor

  Screw the screws backing 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the box (middle photo). One self-tapping screw per piece of metal tape is enough. When the door frame is installed, the tape will stick out. These slats are thin, so even the smallest gap will not be a problem. If the extension on the interior door is the same width, just insert it. Plates due to elasticity press it tightly.

  

  How to put extensions if they are thicker than a quarter

  If the extension is wider, first we bend them to the front, then return them back. Due to the fact that they are not fixed to the edge, they are bent, becoming like an arc.

  

  This is how it can turn out - without the slightest gap

  Now we insert additional strips, leading them between the plates and the groove. They will press the bar tightly. The cracks will not be visible even upon closer inspection.

  How to install extensions: installation tricks

  

  Dobory for interior doors can be installed independently. The materials needed for this are inexpensive, and even a novice home master can find the necessary tools.

  Dobory for interior doors: what they look like and what they are for

  Dobory (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels with which door slopes are closed. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, wallpapered, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetic to install extensions.

  

  The design of the door block with the use of extensions

  Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards, as it were, continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, dobors are bought simultaneously with the door leaf and cashing.

  Benefits of using

  • Properly installed extensions look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
  • Attachments are fast and easy, which saves time, effort and money.
  • During finishing work, the door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and spoiled. Extends the life of the door.

  

  Finished design looks nice and modern

  Dobori can make your own or buy ready-made. The store will offer additional strips of standard sizes:

  • length - 2.1 m;
  • width - 7–25 cm;
  • thickness - 6–30 mm.

  To calculate the width of the additional plank, the depth of the groove in the box is added to the width of the slope, or the width of the box is subtracted from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

  With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the trim strip must not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame..

  Based on the design features, additional strips are divided into:

  • ordinary;
  • conventional with edging ends;
  • telescopic.

  The simplest extension is a straight strip of fibreboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many masters believe that sticking a facing edge on the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be closed with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be carried out with special care, because even a deviation of a couple of millimeters will give out a novice master: a gray raw edge will be striking.

  

  The simplest addition is a regular bar

  If the end of the extension is previously closed with an edge tape matched tone-on-tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because the edging of the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door blocks in kitchens and bathrooms.

  

  A more perfect additional plank is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

  The telescopic dobor has the most complex design. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the dobor fits perfectly with the box and platbands. The width of the dobor is regulated by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made slats.

  

  Telescopic door extension has special recesses

  Necessary tools and materials

  When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:

  • level;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • saw or jigsaw;
  • plane;
  • hammer;
  • sharp knife.
  • mounting foam;
  • fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails or "liquid nails");
  • trim strips.

  As a rule, extensions are bought together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be changed, but they only plan to close the slopes, they are used to make extensions:

  • wooden planks;
  • pieces of MDF;
  • long pieces of chipboard;
  • plastic.

  If natural wood is used, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations to extend its service life.

  Home-made extensions from ordinary MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the inside between two thin fibreboards is filled with cellular material.

  Chipboards lose to wood and MDF in terms of appearance and durability, but inside the room, chipboard extensions can be used.

  Plastic as a material for the manufacture of extensions is rarely used. And if it is still used, then especially strong, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

  

  Dobors can be made of natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

  Installation of trim strips

  Groove installation

  If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to push / push the additional bar deep into the box by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.

  It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already fixed in the doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at least four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may turn out to be uneven.

  

  It is convenient to take measurements with a construction square

  

  Additional strips are bought with a margin in width, and an exact fit is made during the installation process

  

  The design of the door block using conventional extensions

  

  When mounting telescopic extensions, the tongue-to-groove method is used.

  

  The upper dobor lies on the side at a right angle

  

  The gap between the wall and the dobor is filled with foam

  

  The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

  Grooveless installation

  If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are fixed back to back. Such installation requires very accurate (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful fitting of additional strips and special care during installation.

  1. Measure the width of the slopes in the same way as when installing extensions in the groove.
  2. Trim the slats to the desired size. If extra millimeters remain after sawing, they are cut off with a planer.
  3. An edge tape is glued onto the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the reverse side is melted and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.

  

  The edge is glued with an iron

  

  Nails are hammered into the end of the dobor and the hats are bitten off

  

  After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible

  Platband installation

  After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trim is fixed.

  Measure the height of the side rails. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway.

  

  The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal

  

  A miter box will help cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees

  

  Marking is best done on the spot

  

  The ends of the platband are sawn in a mirror image

  

  It is desirable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible.

  If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then a hole is first drilled into which the hat is drowned. Then they are screwed, and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

  At the bottom, the architraves reach the floor. Do not leave a gap for the plinth.

  

  The plinth only adjoins the platband

  Video: How to install dobors and platbands with a capital with your own hands

  It is not difficult to install extensions for interior doors on your own, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door unit will become the main decoration of the room.

  Installation of doors and architraves

  What is it for? That's when we put an addition, then the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About half an inch.

  

  Now, if we have, for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, that's how it is here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out right away without any extra. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been around for a long time. This is a simple box. In general, in telescopic boxes there are passes here. Immediately, so that the cash can be mounted there.

  

  Where do I start installing the add-on. First I saw off in height. First, I end up the bottom, then here I make a mark with a clerical knife and saw off 1 millimeter shorter.

  

  Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case, it is 1 centimeter. And I do the markup on the back. Here is the line.

  

  Well, here we must take into account that it is necessary to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional plank to be somewhere a couple of millimeters less than to the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If the usual additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? That cashing in any case is enough. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, about 4. Up, around here and down here.

  

  If the wall is approximately flat, you can at 3 points. And I adjust, thus, the left and right additional bar. Then I mount the top one on top of them, right on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. Can circular saw some kind of parquet or mini-circular. The top bar, I mark like this.

  

  Here I put it like this so that this edge of it is even before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark out, right in the groove. Knife once and for all. Then I turn it over and paste it like this. And here we already make labels, as it were, in width. Because there is a different left edge and right. This is how we make labels. Here and here. Like this.

  

  And then I draw and cut.

  Dobor installation

  So, now that all our typesetting strips are prepared, sawn off, we put them in place.

  Here, so that the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

  

  So, there is a right angle and up to the groove. Here's what we get.

  

  Like this. Why do you have to do it this way? So that when we insert cash, nothing here sticks out or interferes. And this corner will tighten up with us, that's how it will be. Here he is.

  

  It should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too here. Everything matches.

  

  In the case when, for example, a gap is formed in this corner. Well, there is no foam, for example, to rest. Here I am drilling and screwing screws. They are, as it were, an emphasis, and they prop up this whole corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I moisten this case so that the foam disperses better. It expands more evenly.

  

  Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, we take foam. And with such cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

  

  Now I take masking tape wide from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

  

  And so around the perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, everything can be withdrawn and cashed in. I will do the same on this side as well. From the edge and from above. Everything, dobory will be ready. This mount is sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fasteners are required here. Here is the whole set ready. You can say now it will freeze and that's it. Propenil, fixed.

  

  Why do I do these dots, and not all over. Two reasons. First, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The addition has been made. This is done for a short time within 10-15 minutes. Now I will make an addition on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and it will be possible to start cashing out.

  Cashing out installation

  Here our dobros froze. I cut the foam, removed the tape. Now I'm going to cash out. But I will put it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

  

  In general, telescopic cashing, as a rule, is cut like this at a right angle here. And from the top, the cash goes in here, like this.

  

  But, since cashing is already installed on this door like this. So this also needs to be done on this side. How to mark up. This is how I take it and here I put a half mark with a knife. Like this. Everything, I cut off here and here.

  

  I put the top one first. Then I also substitute the vertical ones overlapping like this. So here I put it and make a mark. This is how it stands, for example. And I times her.

  

  So I put a label. Here she is, barely visible. And I cut everything. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails right here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

  

  Here, here and all the way. And I'll slap her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everywhere, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It is already tight there and you just need to fix it a little bit. You can apply glue here. On the wall straight ahead, a few points. It would be enough.

  

  We insert everything. Maybe a little between them.

  

  We mount everything.

  

  So, here's what we ended up with. Here is such a corner.

  

  Here you can tint with a pencil so that this seam is not visible. Strongly will not rush into the gas. And here is everything. Everything is clear and beautiful. I'll show you how to markup. Here I put it, the knife like this.

  

  All. There is a label. Now we take the label like this, here. And at a right angle we hold the knife and carry it. That's it, now you need to cut diagonally. Everything goes to the market. The truth here, due to the fact that there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I just put a piece of wood here according to the thickness of this distance.

  

  Here I put it and it melts evenly. And I'm sawing off.

  Well, here's what we ended up with. Such is the gain. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

  

  Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no gaps. Here is the node. Everything, the door is absolutely ready.

  All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

  We install doors in different ways

  

  Dobory, or doborny boards, are installed in the frame of the door, if the width of the door frame (jamb, "loot") is less than the thickness of the wall in which the door is installed. Extensions play not only an aesthetic role, covering uneven and easily soiled slopes. (if you are interested in other ways of finishing slopes - read about them here). They, together with the platbands, also strengthen the door and prevent it from warping. Do-it-yourself installation of extensions is possible both when installing a new door, and on an existing door. We will look at the most common cases.

  Additional boards can be made independently, from a flat board, edged or tongue-and-groove, for thick walls. Waterproof plywood BS (aircraft plywood), pasted over with a decorative self-adhesive film, is very well suited for very thick or damp walls or underlayments: BS plywood does not delaminate and does not crack during fine processing of edges and does not warp from moisture.

  

  Door frame with extensions. The mustard color indicates the lining.

  However, most often it turns out to be cheaper and easier to use ready-made additional boards made of MDF with a decorative coating. Standard sizes factory-made extensions are in the range of 80 - 550 mm. For cases when it is necessary to make type-setting extensions on thick walls, extensions from MDF with a tongue-and-groove lock are produced.

  According to standard technology, extensions are installed in a special recess on the inside of the door frame - a quarter. However, when installing extensions on an already standing door, it is permissible to use extensions (adjacent to the door frame) and underlays (slipped under it).

  Attached extensions are recommended to be used only in dry rooms with a moderate temperature and in cases where the door is made of very high quality or may lose value from alteration (for example, if the door is an antique item or a museum exhibit).

  If the door is slanted

  If the door jamb is skewed and the deviation of the upper bar from the horizontal is more than 5% of its length, and the door leaf is fitted to the slanting frame, the installation of extensions without altering the door is not recommended. The door frame itself does not warp; its skew indicates structural defects, without correcting which the extensions will not immediately give a look, and subsequently they will warp and split.

  Tools and accessories

  To install door extensions, you will need some additional tools: a manual wood milling machine, a manual circular (parquet) saw and a clamp with a soft sheathing bed. The clamp is most needed in order to press the saw against the stool with the disc up, to get a convenient mini-circular. It is possible to tighten the clamp with a soft one by successively putting on it and heating over a gas burner at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 m, a heat-shrinkable tube in 3-4 layers.

  Of the accessories, you will need 3-4 stools of the same height and not staggering, 4-5 wooden planks of approximately 30x30 or 40x40 mm, with a dozen wedges from the same rail and several strips (you can waste) of ordinary packaging plywood or drywall.

  Door installation process

  Base plane picking

  In the doorway prepared for the installation of the extensions, you must immediately beat off the base plane, and mark its trace on the floor with a pencil. This is exactly done using the Pythagorean triangle method (a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5; a "magic triangle"). We will give explanations to the figure on how to do this:

  

  • Half the width of the doorway along the bottom is considered equal to three base lengths - 3l. If, for example, the width of the opening is 60 cm, then its half is 30 cm, and the base length (l) is 10 cm.
  • From the corners of the opening with a cord 5l long, we make two marks. From their intersection at point B to point O (middle of the opening) should be 4l. In this case, the OB line will be exactly perpendicular to the opening plane, and all horizontal measurements can be taken from it; the desired vertical accuracy will give a plumb line.

  Note: if you have the opportunity to use the laser projector of the base surfaces, then the described procedure is not needed. But it will not be possible to achieve the required accuracy with the help of a carpenter's or locksmith's large square: the error will be greater than the gap between the door leaf and the door frame.

  What to do if the walls are sloping

  When checking the verticality of the walls, it may turn out that they are sloped, positive or negative. If the slope does not exceed 5 mm along the height of the door, it can be reduced to zero on the surface under the casing with plaster. If it’s more, there’s nothing to be done, when cutting additional boards to size, you will also have to cut them into a wedge.

  Foam blowing

  After installing the extensions, the slots are blown out with mounting foam before plastering. The foam expands as it solidifies and creates a fairly significant pressure. To prevent the finished door jamb from this, you must follow the following rules:

  1. Do not remove the leveling wedges until the foam has completely cured.
  2. Also, do not remove the spacer bars; if they were not previously needed - install on friction, but not tight. The spacers should support the extensions, not push them apart.
  3. Do foam blowing with uniform movement around the perimeter in 3-4 steps; each subsequent - after the complete solidification of the previous one.
  4. There should be some space left from the outer edge of the foam to the edge of the slope. If you see the next layer of foam coming out, stop blowing. "Re-plastering" later is better than "re-plastering" now.

  

  Immediately with the box

  The most technologically simple case is to install door extensions with your own hands when installing a new door along with the door frame. Such an operation is performed in the following order:

  • On the stools we lay the door jamb with the inner (opposite to the hinges) side up.
  • We align the corners to rectangularity, checking with diagonals: they must be of equal length. To do this, we temporarily nail a wooden plank to the bottom with small nails equal to the length of the upper plank of the door.
  • If the jamb is without a quarter for dobors, we select a quarter with a milling machine. The depth of the quarter should be equal to the thickness of the additional board, and its width should be equal to the depth.

  Example: additional board - 16 mm thick (standard MDF thickness). You need to choose a quarter 16X16 mm.

  • Along the perimeter of the door frame, we attach strips of plywood or drywall to the outside so that they protrude up the width of the additional board. Solid framing is not needed, two trims are enough for the top bar and 3-4 for the sidewalls. We nail plywood with carnations; drywall will have to be fixed with self-tapping screws.
  • We cut the extensions to size. The top bar of the extension should lie between the side ones, so we cut it to the size of the upper quarter, and the side ones to the size of the sidewalls of the box.
  • On both sides of the quarter we apply liquid nails or any mounting glue for wood.
  • We insert the additional boards into place and wait for the glue to set.
  • We remove the temporary lower bar that kept the extensions from falling out of the plywood and put the door frame in place.
  • Align the box reference plane.
  • We align the box in width with the help of wooden slats-spacers; while checking the verticality of the sidewalls with a plumb line.
  • Knocking wedges under the sidewalls, we achieve the horizontality of the upper bar of the door.
  • We blow out the cracks with foam and plaster flush with the surface of the wall.
  • We nail the skirting boards, cut them to size and glue the trim with liquid nails - the door with the extensions is ready.

  Finished door and straight slopes

  In this case, in order to facilitate the installation of extensions, you need to prepare in advance a dozen and a half or two thin, 3-4 mm thick, wedges from waste plywood. After that:

  1. We knock down the plaster from the slopes and check if there is a quarter on the door frame. If yes, then it remains to choose additional boards in thickness.
  2. We cut the extensions to size, but not as described above: the top board will now fit the size of the box on top; lateral - in the size of the lateral quarters.
  3. We apply liquid nails to the inner edge of the side extensions, insert them into place. If you can reach a quarter, it is better to apply glue to it.
  4. We adjust the height of the dobors with wedges from below, as described.
  5. We insert in turn the spacer strips, pre-cut to the width of the doorway, and we support the extensions from the side of the slope with thin wedges so that they do not fall out. We check the verticality of the extensions with a plumb line; better - just two, suspended in advance.
  6. We apply glue not to the tops of the side extensions, to the inner edge of the upper extension board (or a quarter), and lay the upper extension board.
  7. After the glue has hardened, blow it with foam and decorate as described.

  

  If there is no quarter and with inclined walls

  If the door frame is without a quarter, then there are two options:

  • Reverse quarter. With a milling machine, we remove a quarter on the extensions, 10-15 mm wide and half the thickness of the extension. With “not very” inclined walls, this option is convenient in that a quarter on the extension can be made oblique in width, and such an extension will hold no worse than “normal”.
  • If the walls are brick, then you can knock out a groove in the slope under the door frame, and put underlays. This option is convenient for those who do rough work with a lot of effort better than light, but thin.

  In both cases, the extensions are installed with the help of auxiliary thin wedges, as already described.

  slope slopes

  If the slopes of the doorway are with a slope (expanding opening), then, regardless of whether the door is a new one or an existing one, the extensions must be placed next to the standing door. The fact is that when installing direct extensions, you get a very wide gap. After blowing foam behind the casing, there will be a space where the plaster lies on the foam. Sooner or later cracks and/or dips form there.

  Therefore, before installing extensions in openings with inclined slopes, the inner edge of the extensions must be brought to a wedge along the length, as marked in the figure with a red circle. After trimming to size, the extensions themselves will take the form of a trapezoid. Otherwise, the installation of extensions in this case has no special features.

  Interior doors

  As a rule, extensions are installed on the side opposite to the door hinges. But when installing the extensions of interior doors, it is possible that they will have to be installed from the side of the hinges. If so, then you first need to check whether the extensions interfere with the opening of the door.

  If with a fully open door between its edge and the edge of the door frame there is a gap equal to the thickness of the extension with a margin of 2-3 mm, there is no problem: we put the extensions in any of the ways described above. If the edge of the door is adjacent to the edge of the box, you need to put underlays, having previously knocked down the plaster from the slopes. This should not be neglected: only 1.5 mm of “pressing” the sash to the extension eats up 10 degrees of its opening angle, not to mention the fact that the extension will soon be damaged.

  Read about the full cycle of interior door installation here.

  steel doors

  It is possible to install extensions on steel doors only with lining ones. There is a nuance here: along the length of the extensions, along their inner DECORATIVE side, at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge, you need to use a circular saw to select a groove with a depth of a third of the thickness of the extension and a width in the thickness of the corner from which the door frame is welded plus 1 mm. It is for this groove, when the edge of the steel door frame enters it, the box will keep the extension with it.

  More information about the nuance of installing entrance doors can be found here.

  Type-setting extensions

  When covering walls with MDF panels, laminate, etc. The selection of the door frame can be done in typesetting from pieces of sheathing material, longitudinal or transverse. But technologically, such an operation already refers to the technology of wall cladding, and not the installation of extensions.