Growth factors in cosmetology. Cosmetic Ingredients: Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)

All living things are made up of proteins.
Proteins, in turn, are made up of chains of amino acids.
The sequence of amino acids in the chain determines the structure and function of the protein molecule.

The variety of protein types determines the variety of their functions in the body.

1. Catalytic function - acceleration of various chemical reactions.
2. Structural function - Structural proteins give shape to cells and many structural components cells.
3. protective function.
4. motor function.
5. transport function.
6. receptor function.
7. Signal function.

The signaling function is one of the most important and currently studied. It lies in the ability of the protein to participate in the transmission of signals between cells, tissues and organs, to serve as a kind of instructor-guide of the necessary information.

Features of growth factors

The signaling function is performed by proteins, hormones, cytokines, and growth factors. Cells interact with each other using signal proteins transmitted through the intercellular substance. These proteins include cytokines and growth factors. Growth factors are large protein molecules, consisting of 100 or more amino acids, produced by the body itself. They are able to control and manage cell division, their differentiation and death.

In the process of aging of the body, the synthesis of growth factors slows down, their functional activity decreases.

1. Selectivity (selectivity). Interact only with healthy cells, with unchanged receptor apparatus.
2. Not capable of stimulating an unlimited number of cell divisions. (Hayflick limit).
3. There is no withdrawal syndrome.
4. Species-specific.

1. The large size of the molecule (limits their number in the preparation).
2. Protein load on the body when using them.
3. Expensive synthesis method.
4. short lived molecules. From synthesis to decay, an average of 30 to 60 minutes passes. Rarely up to 4 hours.

Due to the above disadvantages and little knowledge of the effects on the body, the use of growth factors such as growth hormone (hGH), insulin-like growth factors (for example, IGF-1), mechanical growth factors (MGFs); platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF), fibroblast growth factors (MGFs), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), in the composition of cosmetics is quite controversial.

Peptides in cosmetology

This, to a large extent, served as an impetus for the active use of peptides in cosmetology, especially since peptides have a number of advantages over growth factors.

The term "peptide" was proposed by E. Fisher in 1900, and in 1905 he proposed a method for the synthesis of a peptide in the laboratory.

Peptides are molecules made up of short chains of amino acids. Conventionally, they can be divided into oligopeptides - molecules containing up to ten amino acid residues, and polypeptides - molecules containing more than ten amino acids.

Peptides in structure repeat only part of the growth factor, namely its active center, which interacts directly with the cell receptor, transmitting a signal to it to act. Due to their small size, their possible concentration in the preparation is much higher than that of growth factors.

Peptides are able to modify cell division and differentiation towards normalization: decrease at an increased and stimulate at a reduced level of proliferation.

Also, peptides are able to act on the receptors of target cells for a longer time due to their greater amount in the preparation, and the effect itself is more targeted, due to the simplicity of the molecule. They are not able to penetrate into the general circulation, due to the barrier function of the basement membrane, which means that they do not have a systemic effect and are not capable of causing an allergic reaction.

It can take years to synthesize a peptide in the laboratory, but despite this, it is cheaper to synthesize a peptide than using its natural counterparts.

Peptides are widely used in medicine ( medications), in agriculture (feed, plant protection products), sports (drugs for accelerated recovery from injuries and increased tolerance physical activity) and, of course, in cosmetology.

Most often, peptides are part of injectable preparations, including mesotherapy cocktails, biorevitalizants, and even some fillers, the effectiveness and bioavailability of which are much higher than those for skin application. Despite this, peptides are often added to face and body skin care products (creams, serums), hair loss preparations (shampoos, balms).

In cosmetology, the following groups of peptides are most often used:

1. Dermis Reconstructors:

• Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) activates the synthesis of collagen, skin mucopolysaccharides, fibroblasts, stimulates recovery and regeneration connective tissue and vascular wall, helps to increase tone, increase skin elasticity and the disappearance of deep wrinkles.
• Decapeptide - 4 increases skin elasticity due to the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of the extracellular matrix, actively influences the formation of new cells, thereby reducing wrinkles and has a wound healing and regenerating effect.
• Acetyl decapeptide - 3 reduces wrinkles due to the formation of new cells, increases skin elasticity due to the synthesis of elastin and collagen.
• Oligopeptide - 24 reduces wrinkles and scars on the skin due to the formation of new cells, increased levels of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, synthesis hyaluronic acid and elastin
• Copper tripeptide - 1, or copper peptide, protects the skin from photoaging, restores angiogenesis.
• Tripeptide - 6 stimulates antioxidant protection.
• Thioredoxin participates in many biological connections, signaling and is a key component in the antioxidant defense system of cells, reduces the amount free radicals, protects the fibroblast genome from external influences and genetic mutations.
• Peptides with a botulinum-like effect (neurotransmitter - regulatory peptides):
  Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3(8)) reduces the activity of a neurotransmitter that causes nerve impulses, prevents tension of mimic muscles, reduces mimic wrinkles. In its action, argireline is comparable to botulinum toxin A, but does not cause muscle paralysis.

• Melanostatin (aqua-dextran nonapeptide-1) reduces the activity of alpha melanocytes (cells that produce melanin), prevents the activation of the melanin production process.
• Pentapeptide - 13 blocks the MC1R receptor and prevents alpha-melanostimulating hormone (α-MSH) from binding to it. Thus, signal transmission to the melanosome is blocked, the formation of melanin is reduced.
• Oligopeptide - 34(50) reduces the expression of melanocyte-stimulating factor (MITF) and inhibits the binding of melanosomes to keratinocytes, inhibits tyrosinase activity by blocking the activity of tyrosinase-binding proteins. This leads to a decrease in the proliferation of melanocytes.

• Palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 3 - part of immunoglobulin G- has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect, strengthens the immune system, moisturizes, tightens and improves skin elasticity. It also activates the restoration of connective tissue.
• Soy peptide (REGU - AGE®) improves blood microcirculation, reduces collagen breakdown, reduces the presence of free radicals, restores skin elasticity, enhances lymphatic drainage.

Obviously, not only the beautiful present, but also the future of cosmetology is associated with synthetic peptides.

Simplicity of structure, small size, efficiency due to the identity of human peptides, the absence of withdrawal syndrome and uncontrolled stimulation - these are just some of the unique properties of peptides that, in the capable hands of cosmetologists, can become indispensable tools in solving many, many aesthetic problems!

In a recent post, I mentioned the cosmetic ingredient EGF, and I remember writing about it exactly last year. But now there are more cosmetics with EGF, and there is more information about these three letters, so I will try to review those brands and products that I know.

EGF stands for epidermal growth factor, or in Russian epidermal growth factor, in other words, a polypeptide that stimulates the growth of epidermal cells. In addition to epidermal growth factors, there are other growth factors that act on different groups of cells (for example, a fibroblast stimulator invigorates them to produce more collagen in the skin). This is an area in which I don’t understand anything, so I won’t go deeper, but for those who are interested, I advise you to type “growth factors in cosmetics” in Google and read a few articles on this topic. Actually, I didn't go any further than that.

Probably the first question that arises is what about cancer? Because if a growth factor stimulates cells, it can stimulate the wrong cell. Again, scientifically, I can’t say anything on this topic (maybe experts read me and are not too lazy in the comments to explain something for an illiterate layman). None of the sources that talk about the use of growth factors in cosmetology says anything about their carcinogenicity.

The second question that arises is what about hormones ?! With hormones, it is becoming more and more clear, at least it is clear that growth factors, although they are hormone-like substances, are not produced by specialized cells - that is, they are not sex and not thyroid, for example, glands, so nothing will grow additionally from cosmetics with a growth factor - completely different mechanism.
Growth factors are a feature of cellular cosmetics, which we consider rare, expensive and inaccessible. However, for Asians, this is practically consumer goods, and in Korea there are more cosmetics with EGF than in Japan. What is the effect of using EGF? With it, the skin thickens, becomes stronger, tightens, in general, younger. EGF does not make sense to use at a young age, it is a kick to the skin, which is already tired. The effect of EGF is more pronounced and more true than from creams with a simple external action, I know from my own experience, which is why these cosmetics are so tempting. And, interestingly, it may not necessarily be expensive - most products approach or overtake the prices of luxury cosmetics, but in the Japanese market it is quite possible to find any drops, lotion or cream with EGF for about or less than $ 30. I don’t think that the low price is accompanied by problems with low-quality composition - in fact, everyone draws raw materials, well, if not from one, but from two or three barrels. Perhaps, in cheaper products, there is less concentration, worse marketing, or just a brand that is not promoted - there are so many cosmetic industries in Japan that it’s already scary, and not everyone can be famous. The only thing that confuses me is why growth factors are not used, or at least not talked about by large mass cosmetics manufacturers, the same Shiseido and Kanebo. Although the DHC concern, the largest manufacturer of vitamins, supplements and cosmetics, which always follows the demand and flirts heavily with the consumer, has its own EGF line: lotion, cream and serum. Everything is designed like expensive cosmetics, although with a DHC pop touch :)

And I also remembered a major player with a similar attitude "any whim for your money" - Dr. Ci:Labo. This brand of EGF is found in the evening gel mask for enlarged pores, as well as in the Super Moist 5H x 5C line (such a complicated name due to the fact that there are 5 beneficial substances in the letter H and five in the C).

Decent La Mente cosmeceuticals are armed with gel and essence, which can be used both separately and in combination with the procedures of their ultrasonic device Aurora Ceutical

Already mentioned in the last post, Re-Cept Skin is a democratic line from a manufacturer of cosmetic raw materials.

In the form of drops that can be added when applied to a lotion, cream or mask, EGF is also released by some, for example, the same Dr Ci_Labo and the nice little Tunemakers brand, which has a huge number of different drops for everything from coenzyme, collagen, vitamin C and ceramides and ending with snail mucus extract. With the help of such drops, you can "tune" any cosmetics, they will give meaning and benefit to a simple alcohol lotion "Bobruisk fortune-telling".

also from the field of mass cosmetics - Murasaki Japan, by the way, and Evangelist bb cream, but I have already buzzed everyone's ears about these brands, so I will not dwell on it in detail.

Most often, expensive serums with EGF are found in small professional brands that do not chase volumes. I have a feeling that these brands belong to companies whose main activity is chemical production, research and sales in this area, and cosmetics - so, side. For example, R-Cell lifting serum with 5 growth factors

De-Age Ampleur line

cosmetics Matona

Hand in hand with EGF goes an even more terrible word - fullerene!! This is a molecule in the form of a beautiful carbon ball (like on the covers of chemistry textbooks), which is able to catch all the bad radicals that oxidize and age the skin, thus having a powerful antioxidant effect. It was difficult to make this molecule suitable for use in cosmetic formulations, since it either did not want to dissolve, or something else - but in general, the resistance was broken, and now the Japanese also saturate nourishing anti-aging creams with fullerene.

And what is most surprising, I read on the website of the Japanese Association of EGF Manufacturers that the increased content of growth factors is ... swallows' nests! This already smacks of witchcraft, although on the other hand, the ancient passion of Asians for swallows and their enzymes is understandable. The EGFormula brand writes on the packages that it contains EGF and swallow's nest extract.

In general, it is impossible to imagine what cosmetology will please us in 5 or 10 years :)

Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology in recent years. Any mention of them - "cream with growth factor", "eyelash gel with growth factor" - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they are able to build up. And most importantly, why is it good?

The first substance called a growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they found that the embryo had extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared already in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was called the growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - the growth factor of the nervous tissue. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962 the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even received the Nobel Prize for their discovery - however, only in 1986. To date, dozens of different growth factors have been discovered, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors marked the beginning of a new era in cell biology and significantly changed the views on the processes occurring in the human and animal body.

If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, then we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of non-specialized cells into specialized ones), maintain a healthy state and functioning of all organs and tissues.

As it turned out, every cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts), and pigment cells (melanocytes) secrete and respond to different factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increase the amount of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which contributes to the restoration of skin elasticity and density.

Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Strengthening the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, in a chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of real skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; in order for them to be fully realized, the safe reserves of the skin are necessary. Therefore, the use of preparations with growth factors does not exclude the use of nourishing, moisturizing and other means.

Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, not only improving appearance skin, but also affecting its deeper structures.

An important feature of growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of "internal aging", along with "external". In recent years, quite a lot of research has been conducted confirming that cosmetic products, which include one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds to the physiological characteristics of the skin, can reduce the manifestations of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that with the help of growth factors, it is possible to change the "programmed tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging refers to changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can repair damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, narrow pores and even out complexion.

Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their number and activity decrease every year. The use of funds with growth factors, in theory, helps to compensate for age-related deficiency.

Many growth factors are used in cosmetics, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).

In addition to it, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:

Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet growth factor (PDGF-AA).

Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular growth factors stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new vessels can lead to an increase in sensitivity, so preparations that include VEGF and HGF should not be used on sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, it is these growth factors that are used with success in the treatment of baldness and other problems associated with hair. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is he who is part of most of the famous means with which you can quickly achieve "fan" eyelashes.

Epidermal growth factor has a fairly wide range of effects: it stimulates the growth and division of cells, renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin. As a result, they are able to quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor (“beauty factor”).

All growth factors are small size and a fairly low molecular weight: for example, EGF has an atomic mass of about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he can quite easily

penetrate the skin, overcoming its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.

In fact, main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only a “good role” (in particular, when they are produced by the body during injuries and promote healing).

On labelsgrowth factors, according toINCI, are denoted as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.

Othertitles:
EGF,
FGF-7,
KGF-1,
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
igf,
TGF etc.

An increase in the number of growth factors is also observed in many types of tumors, and their number can also increase in autoimmune diseases: for example, with rheumatoid arthritis high concentrations of VEGF are found in the joints and skin.

Some researchers believe that the constant use of cosmetic products containing growth factors can provoke the development of tumors or other health problems. In addition, the use of TGF is associated with a possible increased risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloid scars at the site of injuries and injuries. The use of eyelash stimulants has also generated controversy: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause inflammation of the eyes. There is no complete certainty that growth factors really penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.

Today I will talk about the "great and terrible" epidermal growth factor (EGF) - a component of anti-aging cosmetics, which is considered one of the most effective and effective, but at the same time it is also one of the most controversial.

Recently, questions about this component began to appear quite often in the comments, so I decided to write a post about it so as not to repeat myself dozens of times (I remind you that the post with questions is here - "Question answer" , it's always easy to find it at the top right of the blog, ask your questions there, and subscribe to comment updates if you want to see new questions and answers).

What's this?epidermal growth factor or in general growth factors (EGF, Epidermal Growth Factor, HGF, TGF, etc.) are special polypeptides that stimulate skin growth at the cellular level, that is, they regulate cell growth and division. There are growth factors in the human body, and in a hundred different forms, they control more than three hundred types of cells in our body, are responsible for their division, for the healing of the skin (for example, in saliva they are responsible for the healing of minor injuries in the stomach), for the growth of bones and etc. The Nobel Prize was awarded for the discovery of growth factors link ).

Previously, it was extremely difficult to isolate growth factors, which made them prohibitively expensive - their cost reached several million dollars, but at the beginning of the 21st century, with the help of new technologies and genetic engineering, their production was much easier, now these components have become more accessible, their including synthesized, and, as expected, began to be added to cosmetic preparations. But in any case, these are still expensive components, so really working growth factors can only be found in fairly expensive cosmetics, but the dominance of inexpensive Asian creams with EGF causes a smile - you should not hope that such cosmetics will have an effect at the cellular level, rather, in such products only the name is from it :).

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What cosmetics gives with them: with age, the natural production of growth factors by the body slows down, due to which the skin becomes thinner and its tone decreases, so the use of cosmetics with their content seems to be more than justified. As I noted above, growth factors stimulate cell division, renew the skin, enhance the synthesis of collagen and elastin (especially transforming growth factor - TGF), increase density and elasticity, promote skin rejuvenation at the cellular level, and also accelerate the healing of burns, wounds and skin damage.

And everything seems fine: and they learned to isolate them, and the effectiveness has been proven, but what's wrong? All varieties of GF have disadvantages, one of which is extremely serious, about it below.

Minuses:~ It is assumed that when exposed to growth factors, the growth of not only healthy cells, but ... and cancer cells is stimulated. Particularly in cosmetic products, it can accelerate the division of bad skin cells, thereby stimulating the development of skin cancer. Here, as they say, no comments;

~ transforming growth factor (TGF) stimulates collagen production so intensely and excessively that it can contribute to scarring (so everything is fine in moderation and this applies not only to growth factors: using too few or too many strong products with active collagen stimulants is not always good for the benefit - and these are active products with vitamin C, and retinol products, and products with specific peptide complexes, so you should be careful not only with growth factors).

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How to find these components in cosmetics? Here are the name and synonyms that can be used to designate growth factors in cosmetic products: EGF, Epidermal Growth Factor, Human Epidermal Growth Factor (hEGF), HGF, Human Epidermal Growth Factor, rh-Oligopeptide-1 (there may be different numbers), sh -Oligopeptide-1,sh-Polypeptide-1, rh-Polypeptide-1, transforming growth factor TGF.

Output: For myself, I choose cosmetics WITHOUT this component (and I don’t plan to try it in the future), but in general, everyone decides for himself what to use. The only thing that can soothe and please is, as I wrote at the beginning, that in most inexpensive cosmetic products EGF or other growth factors are indicated only on the label, but in fact they do not have an effect on cells. Although, who knows, maybe the same Koreans have now learned how to make it for a penny, they can ...

And be healthy!

Many questions arise about growth factors: why are growth factors needed in skin rejuvenation creams, in shampoo, in eyelash conditioner? Let's try to clarify this point, since changes in popular beauty products are of constant interest to consumers. It turns out that there are dozens of growth factors, they are still being discovered. According to biologists, the growth factor became the beginning of a new round in the development of cell biology and significantly changed the views on the processes occurring in living organisms.

Growth factor - a mysterious ingredient in cosmetology

The discovery of a substance called growth factor was made by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in the middle of the last century. Nerve endings begin to grow in living cells, perfectly developing in any organs and even in cancer tumors. It was this “tumor extract” that was called the growth factor - NGF (nerve growth factor) - the growth factor of the nervous tissue. The discoveries, meanwhile, continue to this day.

Any growth factors regulate the multiplication of cells, choose their purpose, allow organs and tissues to function properly. Today it is known that growth factors are produced by all living cells: the epidermis produces keratinocytes, dermis cells produce fibroblasts, and pigmentation cells produce melanocytes.

Absolutely all growth factors activate the processes to restore the elasticity and density of the skin. They work on the principle of a chain reaction and do not work alone. That is why cosmetologists advise using the entire complex to achieve and maintain a long-term effect of skin rejuvenation.

As a rule, these are additional, but no less important means for the skin:

• moisturizing cream ingredients;
• nourishing oils;
• cleansing serums;
• collagen cells restoring elasticity, etc.

Growth factors and their influence on the rejuvenation of the body

The most important feature of the impact of growth factors of cosmetics is that they affect both external and internal processes of rejuvenation of the body. At a deeper level, the same important processes take place as on the surface.

According to the recommendations for the use of anti-aging creams, you can choose the required amount of growth factors to achieve the best results. The older we become, the more hidden processes occur with our skin and the body as a whole. Labels often indicate the age category of the consumer for which the product is suitable - this minimizes the stress of the consumer during the selection. Properly selected cream or cosmetic product will achieve positive results:

• reduce wrinkles;
• reduce skin pigmentation;
• suspend or stop the loss of collagen;
• protect from solar activity (UV - filters);
• provide skin hydration and nutrition;
• stop the thinning of the dermis;
• reduce the decrease in elasticity;
• narrow the pores of the skin;
• even out complexion.

Popular growth factors in cosmetology: EGF, VEGF and HGF

It is worth remembering that a popular remedy will not solve all your problems if you make a mistake with its choice. On the labels, the composition of the product is indicated in small print, but the question, meanwhile, is important.

Below are some of the most popular ingredients that can be found in mature skin care products.

1. Epidermal growth factor (EGF) - enhances the synthesis of substances, is called the "beauty factor".
2. Transforming - enhances the production of collagen (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3).
3. Keratinocyte - triggers cell division of the epidermis (KGF).
4. Insulin-like - division and growth of skin cells (IGF1).
5. Hepatocyte growth factor (HGF).
6. Vascular (VEGF) - accelerates the formation of blood vessels (combats baldness).

For best results, use samplers of products, then you definitely won’t lose by choosing the best skin care option for you.

The benefits and harms of anti-aging products with growth factors

So, the remedy is chosen, and you have started the rejuvenation procedures. Are there any general recommendations in the use of anti-aging novelties? It turns out there is! Experts do not recommend the daily use of cosmetics with growth factors! They are offered to be used only by absolutely healthy people and no more than a couple of times a week, leaving the usual caring cream, milk or water for care on the rest of the days.

At complex application Anti-aging products with growth factors are strongly recommended not to extend the time of application, to take long (several months) breaks between their use. Obviously, growth factors can be both beneficial and detrimental. The difference is how often you intend to use them: 2 courses a year, or once a week all year.

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Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology in recent years. Any mention of them - "cream with growth factor", "eyelash gel with growth factor" - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they are able to build up. And most importantly, why is it good?

The first substance called a growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they found that the embryo had extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared already in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was called the growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - the growth factor of the nervous tissue. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962 the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even received the Nobel Prize for their discovery - however, only in 1986. To date, dozens of different growth factors have been discovered, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors marked the beginning of a new era in cell biology and significantly changed the views on the processes occurring in the human and animal body.

If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, then we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of non-specialized cells into specialized ones), maintain a healthy state and functioning of all organs and tissues.

As it turned out, every cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts), and pigment cells (melanocytes) secrete and respond to different factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increase the amount of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which contributes to the restoration of skin elasticity and density.

Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Strengthening the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, in a chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of real skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; in order for them to be fully realized, the safe reserves of the skin are necessary. Therefore, the use of preparations with growth factors does not exclude the use of nourishing, moisturizing and other means.

Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, not only improves the appearance of the skin, but also affects its deeper structures.

An important feature of growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of "internal aging", along with "external". In recent years, quite a lot of research has been conducted confirming that cosmetic products, which include one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds to the physiological characteristics of the skin, can reduce the manifestations of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that with the help of growth factors, it is possible to change the "programmed tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging refers to changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can repair damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, narrow pores and even out complexion.

Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their number and activity decrease every year. The use of funds with growth factors, in theory, helps to compensate for age-related deficiency.

Many growth factors are used in cosmetics, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).

In addition to it, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:

Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet growth factor (PDGF-AA).

Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular growth factors stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new vessels can lead to an increase in sensitivity, so preparations that include VEGF and HGF should not be used on sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, it is these growth factors that are used with success in the treatment of baldness and other problems associated with hair. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is he who is part of most of the famous means with which you can quickly achieve "fan" eyelashes.

Epidermal growth factor has a fairly wide range of effects: it stimulates the growth and division of cells, renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin. As a result, they are able to quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor (“beauty factor”).

All growth factors are small in size and fairly low in molecular weight: for example, EGF has an atomic mass of about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he can quite easily

penetrate the skin, overcoming its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.

In essence, the main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology is: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only a “good role” (in particular, when they are produced by the body during injuries and promote healing).

On labelsgrowth factors, according toINCI, are denoted as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.

Othertitles:
EGF,
FGF-7,
KGF-1,
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
igf,
TGF etc.

An increase in the number of growth factors is also observed in many types of tumors, and their number can also increase in autoimmune diseases: for example, in rheumatoid arthritis, a high concentration of VEGF is found in the joints and skin.

Some researchers believe that the constant use of cosmetic products containing growth factors can provoke the development of tumors or other health problems. In addition, the use of TGF is associated with a possible increased risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloid scars at the site of injuries and injuries. The use of eyelash stimulants has also generated controversy: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause inflammation of the eyes. There is no complete certainty that growth factors really penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.

The body's ability to heal itself is amazing. Scientists have been studying the mechanisms of this phenomenon for decades, and in 1986 Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini recreated the epidermal growth factor. They managed to understand how cells communicate with each other during their development and growth. It also changed the approach to skin rejuvenation forever.

What it is

Growth factors are a group of small proteins that regulate cell growth, development, and activation. These are the commanders of the army, issuing commands, they can trigger whole cascades of reactions, changing the way cells work and regulating the work of certain genes.

There is already evidence that the signs of skin aging can be significantly reduced with the use of a balanced mixture of growth factors, as regeneration functions fade with age. Cosmetic growth factors are obtained from the simplest bacterium - Escherichia coli E. coli.

How it works

The starting point was the study of the mechanism of wound healing. Studies have shown that a mixture of epidermal growth factor, fibroblast growth factor, transforming growth factor beta and platelet growth factor significantly reduces healing time without the formation of dense scar tissue. In addition, each of the "commanders" is responsible for a specific area. It is important to understand that growth factors do not work alone, it is an army where everyone clearly knows their duties.

It is worth recalling that the inflammatory reaction occurs in the skin almost constantly, it is provoked by psychological stress, UV radiation, and malnutrition. That is, recovery is required not only for cuts and abrasions.

What to look for on the label

Growth factors that stimulate proliferation, i.e., cell division, are most often found in cosmetics. As a rule, these are complex names, and often even a letter code, but if you decipher the names, it is usually clear why they are in a cosmetic product.

epidermal growth factor. Looks like RH-oligopeptide 1 or EGF on the label. It increases the number of stem cells in the skin, causing them to divide, promotes rapid healing and stimulates collagen synthesis. Its scope is restorative agents after acid peels or microdermabrasion.

Russian name

Latin name of the substance Epidermal growth factor

Pharmacological group of the substance Epidermal growth factor

Nosological classification (ICD-10)

Substance characteristics Epidermal growth factor

Human recombinant epidermal growth factor (EGFR) is a highly purified 53 amino acid peptide with a molecular weight of 6054 Da and an isoelectric point of 4.6. EGFR is produced by a strain of yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, into whose genome the EGFfr gene has been introduced by genetic engineering.

Pharmacology

EGFhr, obtained on the basis of recombinant DNA technology, is identical in its mechanism of action to the endogenous epidermal growth factor produced in the body. EGFfr stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts, keratinocytes, endothelial and other cells involved in wound healing, promoting epithelialization, scarring and restoration of tissue elasticity.

Pharmacokinetics

EGFR is not detected in plasma, but is detected in platelets (approximately 500 mmol/1012 platelets).

In most patients, T max after injection into the affected area ranged from 5 to 15 minutes. The average value of AUC after the first administration of the drug at a dose of 75 mcg and 27 days after administration is 198 and 243 pg h / ml, respectively, and the average Cmax is 1040 pg / ml. T l / 2 and the average retention time of EGFfr in the body were close to 1 hour. Full clearance occurs in about 2 hours.

Application of the substance Epidermal growth factor

As part of complex therapy diabetic foot syndrome with deep non-healing within 4 weeks or more neuropathic or neuroischemic wounds with an area of ​​more than 1 cm 2 reaching the tendon, ligament, joint or bone.

Contraindications

Hypersensitivity; diabetic coma or diabetic ketoacidosis; CHF III-IV class according to NYHA; the presence in the last 3 months of episodes of acute cardiovascular pathology (severe acute cardiovascular condition), such as acute myocardial infarction, severe angina pectoris, acute stroke or transient ischemic attack, thromboembolism (deep vein thrombosis, pulmonary embolism); severe AV blockade (III degree), atrial fibrillation with uncontrolled rhythm; malignant neoplasms; pregnancy, period breastfeeding; childhood up to 18 years; kidney failure(glomerular filtration rate<30 мл/мин); наличие некроза раны (перед введением препарата необходима хирургическая обработка раны); наличие инфекционного процесса, в т.ч. остеомиелита (ЭФРчр применяют после его полного разрешения); наличие признаков критической ишемии конечности (величина лодыжечно-плечевого индекса >0.6 but<1,3 и/или величина пальце-плечевого индекса >0.5, and/or transcutaneous oxygen tension in tissues<30 мм рт. ст. ) — возможно использование ЭФРчр только после реваскуляризации.

Application restrictions

EGFFR should be used with caution in patients with valvular heart disease (eg, aortic valve calcification), severe carotid stenosis (<70% NASCET), тяжелой неконтролируемой артериальной гипертензией (см. «Противопоказания»).

Use during pregnancy and lactation

The use of EGFhr during pregnancy is contraindicated (due to the lack of data on the safety of use).

When prescribing EGFhr during breastfeeding, breastfeeding should be discontinued.

Side effects of the substance Epidermal growth factor

The frequency of side effects (taking into account the number of all patients treated with EGFhr in clinical trials, including in the Russian Federation) was as follows: 1.2% of patients had headache, 24.3% had tremor, 24% - pain at the injection site, 17.8% - a burning sensation at the injection site, 11.3% - chills, 2.8% - fever, 4.4% - infection at the injection site.

Pain or burning at the injection site was observed with a similar frequency in patients who were injected with EGFR and placebo. These adverse events are most likely related to the injection procedure itself.

Approximately 10-30% of patients in all studies observed chills and tremors. These phenomena were often observed shortly after injection and were transient. They were never severe and did not lead to treatment interruption. In most cases, their association with treatment was considered definite or probable.

Moderate or severe injection site infections were reported in 15% to 18% of patients in both the EGFR and placebo groups, therefore these adverse events were not likely drug-related but could be procedure-related. injections. All other adverse events were observed at a low frequency in the EGFr group and in the placebo group, so their relationship with the ongoing treatment is unlikely.

Interaction

Overdose

There are no data on EFRchr overdose.

Routes of administration

Injection.

Substance Precautions Epidermal Growth Factor

EFRfr is used as part of complex therapy (antibacterial therapy, surgical treatment of a wound) for diabetic foot syndrome.

Before the introduction of EGFfr, surgical treatment of the wound is carried out in compliance with all the conditions of asepsis and antisepsis.

Malignant etiology of the ulcer must be ruled out prior to treatment with EFRfr.

The contents of one package of the EGFfr dosage form is used only for one patient. Care must be taken to avoid damage and bacterial contamination of the vials.

Unused EFRchr in a timely manner or its remains must be disposed of in an appropriate way.

The needle needs to be changed for each injection.

Influence on the ability to drive a vehicle and work with mechanisms. There are no data on the negative effect of EFRfr on the ability to drive a vehicle or work with mechanisms.